How do you grow Ipomoea “Marguerite”? Is it from seed, root, cutting? Marsha C.
Answer: Ipomoea batatas ‘Margarita’ or ‘Marguerite’ is a varietal cultivar of the large and diverse family of Convolulaceae or bindweed, which includes climbers, herbs, shrubs and trees. The species batatas includes the food group of the sweet potato, and while the culitvars that produce the colorful annual vines will produce tubers like their cousins, these tubers will often not produce foliage similar to the previous season’s growth but may revert to the previous coloration of the plant’s heritage. Most of the starts you see commercially available are produced through a tissue culture process that produces consistent results and allows for mass production. While they do produce a bloom, the flowers are usually sterile and any seed produced is not guaranteed to provide a new plant. It might be possible to take cuttings from plants but I haven’t read any great success stories about this method. If you live in southern Florida, or Zone 9 and above, they are hardy there, and I have also read where people have wintered them over as houseplants inside. But they like lots of light and warmth. They are vigorous growers, so a small plant will in no time take over an area in the garden or in your container.
I am interested in perennials that are red in color and are able to live in direct sunlight in South Florida. I am looking for a flowering plant that I will not lose as soon as the fall is gone. Any suggestions? Sherry
Answer: Well, Sherry, most perennials have a “bloom period” so ideally you would want to include a variety of plants that would give you the sort of continuous blooms you are looking for. In your climate you also have the luxury of a number of tropicals! Many of those will offer you long blooms and many are red in color, like the shrimp plant, hibiscus, anthurium, phygelius, and lantanas. But you can also consider daylilies, pentas, cannas, celosias, dianthus, gaillardia, red salvia, kniphofia, and even snapdragons. Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’ is a particularly vibrant red bloomer that puts on a show mid- to late- summer. Maybe consider a vine like bougainvillea or mandevilla, which both are available in shades of red.
Another consideration is red-leafed plants. There are more and more varieties to choose from in the cordylines, alternantheras, aclyphas, and phormiums. The common coleus (Solenostemon) is no longer very common looking and is available in lots of red hues.
Don’t be afraid to experiment! There are so many great options, so little space…
Attention: avid birdwatchers and novices, alike. This is the time to stock up on thistle seed, to attract goldfinches to your backyard feeders. The lovely songbird couples, mated in monogamous pairs, will adorn your outdoors spaces, adding color and interest to your fall backyard nature preserve.
There are three species of goldfinches in the U.S. and all are equally lovely. They tend to flock together in large groups. Goldfinches are known to mate later in the season than many other birds. The male’s plumage during mating season is bright yellow with black markings on his head, wingtips and tail. One white wingbar marks his wings and tail. When not in mating season, he’s a grayish brown with hints of yellow and white on his underside.
The female’s plumage during mating season is a less vivid yellow on top with a contrasting shade of yellow on her underside. Her black and white tail is in sharp contrast to her yellow body. Her bill is light colored, and her wings have two light wingbars. Her tail is black with white tips. When not in breeding season, her coloring is mostly grey.
The nesting habits of these songbirds are determined by the females, who build nests in tree branches and at the tops of bushes to attract colonies. The well-constructed nests are crafted from plant parts and then lined with thistle down, the remains of their favorite food source, to provide a comfortable incubation space for their eggs.
Goldfinches feed on weed seeds, like thistle, and insects. When the summer’s production of seeds begins to disappear with the fall, it’s time to provide goldfinches with a feeder full of thistle to keep them flocking to your yard instead of migrating south toward more available food. There are many types of feeders that attract goldfinches and are specifically designed to hold thistle. Garden Harvest Supply has feeders offering up to eighteen feeding stations, and with every manner of options—aesthetic and practical—to choose from. There are even finch feeders with perches designed so the birds eat upside-down! There are squirrel-proof feeders and feeders with eighteen colorful perches to attract goldfinches in mass numbers.
Goldfinch feeders can be hung from feeder hangers or tree branches. Modern feeders have components specifically integrated to keep moisture out, and to prevent spilling of seed. Some are designed for the easiest filling, since the goal is to keep attracting wildlife for your viewing pleasure.
It’s imperative that you keep bird feeders clean on the outside but more importantly on the inside, so the seed you serve your grateful guests stays fresh and dry. Cleaning accessories are available for all types of feeders sold by Garden Harvest Supply. Check the website to make sure you have all the seed, cleaning supplies, and accessories you need to make bird feeder maintenance a joy instead of a chore. Don’t forget to provide a constant source of clean water for your birds’ bathing and drinking needs in either a fountain or birdbath. They’ll thank you by providing a water show and a song to entertain you all day long.
Hi! I have gotten plants from you before and I love them. Also I love how you stand behind your products. Thank you. I am in Florida and I want to do more planting of veggies – mostly tomatoes and spinach. Which of your tomatoes are good for Florida at this time of the year, and do you currently have spinach? I got my spinach from you last year and it was great. I grow all my veggies in pots on my patio. Can you suggest any other ones suitable for Florida? Thank you, Sue M
Answer: Thank you for all the compliments on the plants. Always good to get such great feedback on how well they do.
Since your spring comes earlier than many areas of the U.S., make sure you check back with us right after the first of the year when we start getting some of our early spring plants just in time for the early growing season in Florida. Remember, your spring cool season can start as early as January in some area of Florida for crops like cauliflower and turnips, and February for leaf vegetables, tomatoes and peppers. Be sure to check your zone guide to be certain of exact planting dates.
Can you tell me about split leaf philodendron? Someone told me that are horrible about tearing up your house in search of water. Is this true?
Thanks,
Vicky H.
Answer: Hmmm… sounds like someone has been watching Little Shop of Horrors!
Monsteras deliciosa or split leaf philodendrons come in two varieties, climbers reaching upwards of 30 feet in their natural habitat, and tree or shrub-like with a mature size of 10 feet tall. As houseplants they want lots of room but I wouldn’t really call them destructive. They will produce aerial roots that you can direct into the potting medium to help support the plant as it grows. If the plant becomes too large it can be propagated by stem cuttings or air-layered and the aerial roots can be trimmed. When grown in pots and indoors, the rate of growth will be slower than in their natural habitat but they can still become quite large, so take this into consideration before adopting one.
They are fairly easy houseplants otherwise, wanting warm daytime temps and evening temperatures in the 60s. They will survive in lower temps for short periods. Medium to low light is acceptable. If new leaves are developing smaller and farther apart, it wants some more light; too much light and the leaves will burn. Keep the soil evenly moist, allowing it to dry out between waterings, and keep the leaves clean and dust free. As a houseplant Monsteras can be susceptible to spider mites, scale and a fungal condition called Leaf Spot.
All members of the Monsteras and Araceae family are poisonous. This includes leaf, stem, root and sap, so be sure to wash your hands thoroughly after handling one.
Is it beneficial to put down fertilizer on asparagus beds this fall? If so, what are the recommendations? Thanks for your help! Sammy
Answer: Asparagus is a hardy perennial and like all perennials fall clean-up and fertilizing are good practices to incorporate into those seasonal chores.
Clean-up should begin after the first frost. The asparagus tops should be removed to the ground to lessen the chances of fungal diseases overwintering in the foliage. With any disease it’s best to not compost this debris as fungus can overwinter and wait for spring to reinfect other plants.
Since asparagus can remain in the same bed for years, one of the best and easiest ways to keep roots well fed is after cutting down the fronds, apply a thick layer of well-composted manure or compost. The spears will push right thru it in the spring. Over the winter the spears are forming, so adding this organic fertilizer in the fall will help energize the plants for the spring growing season. You should not apply a high nitrogen fertilizer to any perennial in the fall. Nitrogen encourages plant growth and lots of new growth just before frost can cause harm to the overall plant health.
Espoma’s Organic Traditions Manure or Triple Phosphate or Bone Meal fertilizer supplements can be added to help nourish the root systems of the asparagus in the fall. They can also be added in the spring to reinvigorate plants. They also make a great fall supplement for your other perennials, as well.
Check out Garden Harvest Supply’s entire array of renowned organic fertilizers. There are products for every produce grower’s needs. With cold temps approaching, now is a great time to stock up on plant supplements and fertilizers you plan to use in the spring, so they’re on the shelf and ready when you are as the warm days return!
I have new double knockout rose bushes. Please recommend a cover for our long winter where temperatures go as low as minus 20 F. Thanks, Armande
Answer: For Zone 4 here are some general suggestions. First you want to make sure you have cleaned away any leaves or old mulch that might be left, eliminating over-wintering of any fungal spores. In Zone 4 it is suggested that after mid-October you spray the plants with a fungicide/dormant spray. After the first hard frost trim back the canes to a few feet. You can also tie the canes together to keep the wind from blowing and breaking them. Then using mulch or wood chips mixed with soil, compost mound up about 10 inches over the graft or crown of the plant. You can continue adding mulch to a depth of 15-18 inches. Once the ground is completely frozen and mice are not a threat, you can continue to protect them by creating a fence around them and fill with straw, hay or strawy manure to a depth of 3 feet. Start the reverse process around April, removing the last layer, and add water.
Rose cones can also be used but they are more expensive if you have a number of plants. For these you would want to wait until there have been several hard frosts and the roses are completely dormant. You will need to cut the canes back and tie together so they will fit completely under the cones. Mound your soil or mulch over the base of each rose. Punch 4-6 holes around the top to allow ventilation. If the heat builds up inside, the rose might break dormancy too early. Before putting the cone over the rose, add some dry mulching material, such as leaves or straw. Make sure to weigh down the cones with a brick or heavy rock and mound some mulch or soil over the base of the cones. Remove the cones after the threat of hard frost is over in the spring.
Knock-out roses are pretty hardy so either method should be fine; however, speaking from experience I find trying to wrangle roses into rose cones a bit of a pain, quite literally, so I prefer the fencing and mounding method for winter protection.
I am new to growing vegtables and herbs and I am looking for advice for the growing season. I have a south-facing balcony and I am interested in what are the best fruit, vegtables or herbs to grow in a South-East UK climate. I am particularly interested in growing peppers and tomatoes but what else is there to grow from containers? What should I bring in for next year and when are they best planted? Thanks, David
Answer: Well, David, you’re pretty fortunate with the majority of the UK being Zone 8, a pretty temperate climate. I started out growing veggies on a balcony and while a bit of a challenge, I had pretty good luck. Most herbs and vegetables should grow easily. If you’re just starting into gardening, stick with the basics. Almost anything can be grown in containers but if you want to try a zucchini or squash, look for some of the bush varieties since they will consume significantly less space on your balcony. There are also some smaller bush-like varieties of tomatoes. For herbs, again you should be able to grow almost any in containers well, and in your climate Rosemary will even do well, and I really am jealous. Small plastic trash containers make good containers but remember to drill a hole in the bottom to allow for drainage. Look for “soilless” potting mix as all that potting soil could get really heavy and I suppose you should also consider who is below you when the water runs off from the pots.
How do you grow Ipomoea “Marguerite”? Is it from seed, root, cutting? Marsha C.
I am interested in perennials that are red in color and are able to live in direct sunlight in South Florida. I am looking for a flowering plant that I will not lose as soon as the fall is gone. Any suggestions? Sherry
Attention: avid birdwatchers and novices, alike. This is the time to stock up on thistle seed, to attract goldfinches to your backyard feeders. The lovely songbird couples, mated in monogamous pairs, will adorn your outdoors spaces, adding color and interest to your fall backyard nature preserve.
Hi! I have gotten plants from you before and I love them. Also I love how you stand behind your products. Thank you. I am in Florida and I want to do more planting of veggies – mostly tomatoes and spinach. Which of your tomatoes are good for Florida at this time of the year, and do you currently have spinach? I got my spinach from you last year and it was great. I grow all my veggies in pots on my patio. Can you suggest any other ones suitable for Florida? Thank you, Sue M
Do you remember Grandma’s house and the candy dishes in almost very room? They were filled with 
Can you tell me about split leaf philodendron? Someone told me that are horrible about tearing up your house in search of water. Is this true?
Is it beneficial to put down fertilizer on asparagus beds this fall? If so, what are the recommendations? Thanks for your help! Sammy
I have new double knockout rose bushes. Please recommend a cover for our long winter where temperatures go as low as minus 20 F. Thanks, Armande
I am new to growing vegtables and herbs and I am looking for advice for the growing season. I have a south-facing balcony and I am interested in what are the best fruit, vegtables or herbs to grow in a South-East UK climate. I am particularly interested in growing peppers and tomatoes but what else is there to grow from containers? What should I bring in for next year and when are they best planted? Thanks, David
