Is it beneficial to put down fertilizer on asparagus beds this fall? If so, what are the recommendations? Thanks for your help!  Sammy

Answer: Asparagus is a hardy perennial and like all perennials fall clean-up and fertilizing are good practices to incorporate into those seasonal chores. 

Clean-up should begin after the first frost.  The asparagus tops should be removed to the ground to lessen the chances of fungal diseases overwintering in the foliage. With any disease it’s best to not compost this debris as fungus can overwinter and wait for spring to reinfect other plants.

Since asparagus can remain in the same bed for years, one of the best and easiest ways to keep roots well fed is after cutting down the fronds, apply a thick layer of well-composted manure or compost. The spears will push right thru it in the spring. Over the winter the spears are forming, so adding this organic fertilizer in the fall will help energize the plants for the spring growing season. You should not apply a high nitrogen fertilizer to any perennial in the fall. Nitrogen encourages plant growth and lots of new growth just before frost can cause harm to the overall plant health. 

Espoma’s Organic Traditions Manure or Triple Phosphate or Bone Meal fertilizer supplements can be added to help nourish the root systems of the asparagus in the fall. They can also be added in the spring to reinvigorate plants. They also make a great fall supplement for your other perennials, as well.

Check out Garden Harvest Supply’s entire array of renowned organic fertilizers.  There are products for every produce grower’s needs.  With cold temps approaching, now is a great time to stock up on plant supplements and fertilizers you plan to use in the spring, so they’re on the shelf and ready when you are as the warm days return!  

Karen

This short video shows how easy it is to plant bare-root strawberry plants. Just remember to keep the soil moist for the first two weeks.

I have new double knockout rose bushes. Please recommend a cover for our long winter where temperatures go as low as minus 20 F.  Thanks, Armande

Answer: For Zone 4 here are some general suggestions. First you want to make sure you have cleaned away any leaves or old mulch that might be left, eliminating over-wintering of any fungal spores. In Zone 4 it is suggested that after mid-October you spray the plants with a fungicide/dormant spray. After the first hard frost trim back the canes to a few feet.  You can also tie the canes together to keep the wind from blowing and breaking them. Then using mulch or wood chips mixed with soil, compost mound up about 10 inches over the graft or crown of the plant. You can continue adding mulch to a depth of 15-18 inches. Once the ground is completely frozen and mice are not a threat, you can continue to protect them by creating a fence around them and fill with straw, hay or strawy manure to a depth of 3 feet. Start the reverse process around April, removing the last layer, and add water. 

Rose cones can also be used but they are more expensive if you have a number of plants. For these you would want to wait until there have been several hard frosts and the roses are completely dormant. You will need to cut the canes back and tie together so they will fit completely under the cones. Mound your soil or mulch over the base of each rose. Punch 4-6 holes around the top to allow ventilation.  If the heat builds up inside, the rose might break dormancy too early. Before putting the cone over the rose, add some dry mulching material, such as leaves or straw. Make sure to weigh down the cones with a brick or heavy rock and mound some mulch or soil over the base of the cones. Remove the cones after the threat of hard frost is over in the spring. 

Knock-out roses are pretty hardy so either method should be fine; however, speaking from experience I find trying to wrangle roses into rose cones a bit of a pain, quite literally, so I prefer the fencing and mounding method for winter protection.

Best of luck with them.

Karen

I am new to growing vegtables and herbs and I am looking for advice for the growing season.  I have a south-facing balcony and I am interested in what are the best fruit, vegtables or herbs to grow in a South-East UK climate. I am particularly interested in growing peppers and tomatoes but what else is there to grow from containers? What should I bring in for next year and when are they best planted? Thanks, David

Answer: Well, David, you’re pretty fortunate with the majority of the UK being Zone 8, a pretty temperate climate. I started out growing veggies on a balcony and while a bit of a challenge, I had pretty good luck.  Most herbs and vegetables should grow easily. If you’re just starting into gardening, stick with the basics. Almost anything can be grown in containers but if you want to try a zucchini or squash, look for some of the bush varieties since they will consume significantly less space on your balcony. There are also some smaller bush-like varieties of tomatoes.  For herbs, again you should be able to grow almost any in containers well, and in your climate Rosemary will even do well, and I really am jealous. Small plastic trash containers make good containers but remember to drill a hole in the bottom to allow for drainage. Look for “soilless”  potting mix as all that potting soil could get really heavy and I suppose you should also consider who is below you when the water runs off from the pots.

Good luck and happy gardening.

Karen

What should I get for a crab apple tree that bloomed in the spring but then dropped all the leaves in the summer and did not make fruit for the first time? It is an old tree…. Thank you, Cindy

Answers: You do not mention what part of the country your crab apple tree is located in and what the weather conditions have been. Diagnosis is going to be difficult but here are some things to watch and check. There are only a few diseases and pests that bother crab apples, but if you had an overly wet spring your tree might have gotten attacked by Apple Scab, a fungal disease. It attacks emerging leaves in the early spring and then moves to the fruit. You would have seen dark olive green spots on leaves in May or June, turning black as the leaves matured. This can cause premature defoliation. Control will come in the spring when you apply fungicides as the leaves begin to emerge. I suggest you search the web for images of apple scab to determine this for certain and then for suggested fungicides if you feel it may have been affected. Fruit may have been damaged early and fallen, or weather conditions may have been such that flowers were not actively pollinated, causing fruit to not develop or to be insignificant. 

The Midwest had some very dry spells, causing many of the trees, including crab apples, to drop a significant amount of leaves as a means of self-preservation. If you have been experiencing such dry spells this could be the reason for the leaf drop, and possibly the lack of fruit if the dry spell was early in the season.

Also consider any environmental conditions that may have happened in the previous winter or summer that might have weakened the tree. Trees are often slow to react to stressors, so whatever has affected it might have happened a season or two earlier. Also if you have sprayed any herbicide around it in a more concentrated amount, it might have caused some stress to the tree.

You can check the branches to make sure sap is still flowing to them by carefully scratching the bark with your fingernail or a small knife.  You should see green in the layer just below the bark. If the branches are still green then the tree is still actively transporting vital nutrients to its outer limits, but at a reduced rate. It is currently setting bud for next spring.

Fertilizer should not be applied to the tree in the fall but in the early spring as the tree starts to move the sap up the tree. This time will vary for each zone so check online for the best time for your region. You will want to apply a nitrogen-rich fertilizer at that time.  This is one where the first number in the sequence is highest, such as 25-10-10.

For the moment there is not a lot you can do except make sure all the leaves are cleared away.  If it was apple scab you don’t want the fungus wintering over and recurring even worse next season, and make sure it has sufficient water through the fall season. Then wait to see what happens next spring. Hopefully it was just an environmental condition and will be beautiful again.

Best of luck,

Karen

Potatoes are super-easy to grow and are great for storing over the cold months, so they make a popular late-harvest crop.  As with all home-grown vegetables, nothing from a supermarket can compare in flavor. Consider planting early and late-season varieties.

Potatoes require full sun and well-drained, loose soil.  You can begin planting potatoes as soon as the risk of frost is past.  Also, for the best results, you must start with certified seed potatoes so they’re free of disease and will provide the highest yields.  The seed, or eye, is the sprout that appears as soon as the potato is exposed to light.

Once you’ve acquired the varieties of certified seed potatoes you wish to plant, place them in a room-temperature location with bright sun a couple of weeks before the last frost.  Then, using a clean, sharp knife, cut them into cubes of around 1- to 2-inches, large enough that each one contains one or two eyes, or buds.  Small seed potatoes may also be planted whole.

There are three distinct methods of planting potatoes. Trench planting means you dig trenches in rows approximately 2 to 3 feet apart, and 4” wide by 6” deep.  Make sure the soil is well-worked and free of debris.   Organic compost can be added to the tilled trenches, but in small amounts, because potatoes are susceptible to diseases from soil that is “too rich.” 

Place the seed potato pieces cut side down in the trenches and cover with soil.   Plant pieces no closer than a foot apart.  Cover with several inches of soil.  Within a couple of weeks, sprouts will grow out of the trench, at which time you add another few inches of soil on top.  Each two to three weeks, add additional soil to keep the stems covered halfway.  The potatoes will grow in the soil between the seed pieces and the surface, so you want to provide plenty of growing room.  And, make sure the spuds themselves don’t get sunlight.  The plant tops will send nutrients down to the growing tubers.

Hill planting requires the same attention as trench mounding.  The difference is you begin with mounded soil and you can plant your seed potatoes closer together, or in a more circular pattern as opposed to straight rows.  As your plants sprout, keep covering the growing stems with fresh dirt each couple of weeks to make sure the potatoes are growing beneath the surface.  You want approximately one-half of the growing stems to be continually buried in soil.

Potato Grow Bags are a novel way to grow tubers in a very small space. Grow bags are reusable and they fold flat between seasons.  They’re made of flexible polyethylene and include drainage holes.  They hold 3 to 5 potato plants per bag and are wonderful for sunny porch or deck planting.  Simply fill the bag with soil and then add seed potato cuttings.  They require very little maintenance but at the end of the season, they produce a large bounty of potatoes that just fall easily out of the overturned bag.  No need to dig them out!

Neptune’s Harvest Fish and Seaweed Blend is an excellent fertilizer and plant food for all vegetables, including potatoes.  Dilute according to directions on the label and feed every two to three weeks for superior results.  Neptune’s Harvest is concentrated for efficient storage and usage.  It’s comprised of organic ingredients that are beneficial to the health of all growing plants, and is available in economical sizes from one pint to five gallons.

Imagine leaving for your long-awaited vacation with no worries.  Your work is caught up, your home is secured, your plants are cared for without a plant-sitter.  Yes, it’s possible.

Houseplants and landscape plants that are accustomed to TLC when you’re home can now be left unattended in your absence.  There is a product called Vacation All-Natural Anti-drought Treatment that takes all the worry out of watering while you’re away—whether it’s a once-a-year vacation or regular business trips. Vacation gives plant lovers peace of mind.

Vacation All-Natural Anti-drought Treatment works this way:  it sends your plants into a state of temporary hibernation.  Your plants will be able to go up to two weeks without watering, because they’re dormant until they receive water again.  Once you water them or they receive rain or irrigation, the effects of Vacation wear off and your plants return to their normal behavior.

You simply mix Vacation with water and apply the solution to the soil of your indoor and outdoor plants.  Then, they can go up to two weeks without another drop of water.   For all your plants, once you return home and give them a good drink, they “wake up” and slowly return to their normal moisture requirements.

Vacation is all-natural, biodegradable, and safe for use around children and pets.  The dormancy effects gradually wear off as plants once again receive watering.  Nothing could be easier to use, and it’s way more cost-effective than hiring someone to water your plants as you travel.  If you’re like many people, it’s a comfort to know no one is in your home while you’re away.   And it most certainly beats having to move your plants to someone else’s home to be cared for.

Indoor plants have varying water needs, depending on the season, the amount of sunlight, and the moisture level in the air.  With Vacation Anti-drought Treatment, those fluctuations don’t matter.  You’ll find your plants exactly the same way you left them when you return.  If plants are in bloom, the flowers should be intact for that two-week period, as well.

Vacation is available in 8-ounce bottles and a little goes a long way, since it’s mixed with water before application.  It’s safe to use outdoors around wildlife.  Vacation Anti-drought Treatment can even be used on lawns.  Basically any plant that requires regular watering can benefit from this amazing and practical product.  Should it rain while you’re gone, the effects of Vacation wear off and your lawn returns to normal moisture needs.  Consider Vacation for your cut Christmas trees, too.  It eliminates the need for adding water to the reservoir daily for up to three weeks!  Vacation Anti-Drought Treatment is one product that no plant lover should be without.

Fall Tree Care

People tend to think of trees as a part of the landscape—as self-sufficient as brooks and almost as permanent as boulders. Yet trees can be quite vulnerable, especially when young.  Extension educator David J. Robson likens trees to children and argues that in order for them to get off to a good start, they need the right kind of care—not just for the first few months but for the first few years. “Make an investment in your trees,” he writes, “and hopefully they’ll be around in your old age.”

So what do our trees need in order to live long, healthy, and productive lives? Not very much, it turns out: mostly just sufficient water and periodic application of fertilizer. Of course, certain trees will need to be pruned or trimmed, and newly planted trees might need to be staked. But that’s about it, unless a tree becomes diseased. But that’s all the more reason to give your trees good preventive care to keep them as healthy as possible.

Water Deeply and Weekly

Some people water their trees for the first couple months after they’ve been planted and then assume they’ll be fine after that. Actually, trees need to be watered for at least the first couple of years. The amount of water has to be right also: enough to penetrate to the roots, but not so much that the root systems become soggy or even rotten. If your area gets a substantial rainfall once a week, that should be sufficient, but if not, water your trees deeply on weeks when it has been dry. Also, try to get out and give your trees a last fall watering before that first freeze occurs, especially if they are conifers.

Established trees should be watered to a depth of six to eight inches around the perimeter of the thickest part of the root zone; newly planted trees need this kind of deep watering throughout the entire root zone. Either way, it amounts to a lot of water, especially considering that established trees have root zones that extend 1 1/2 to 3 times beyond the tree’s canopy.

One way to conserve water is to drive a few Deep Drip™ Watering Stakes around the perimeter of the canopy. These will deliver water directly to the tree roots without any being lost to run-off or evaporation. Watering Stakes also improve soil aeration and enable fertilizer to penetrate deeply, making for stronger, healthier roots. You’ll find that you’ll be able to water less often for shorter amounts of time.

Fertilize Around the Root Zone

Fall is an excellent time to fertilize your trees. Professional arborists devise a fertilizer application schedule based on how quickly a tree is going, but it’s safe to say that your trees will probably need fertilizing in the fall, unless they are located in a forest where leaves and other organic matter are decomposing around them, or on a lawn that is being fertilized two or three times a year. In the former case, Mother Nature will provide the fertilizer, in that latter case, your trees will soak up enough lawn fertilizer to nourish them.

The procedure for fertilizing a tree is pretty straightforward: you just need a 3/4 inch piece of rebar at least two feet long, a heavy hammer, and a cup. Place the bar down at a point along the drip line of the tree and hammer it to a depth of about 18 inches. Pull it out, and continue making holes every three feet around the entire perimeter of the tree. After you’ve done that, move three feet inward and do the same thing; then move six feet outward and repeat the procedure once again. Finally pour about six ounces of fertilizer into each hole.

The tree fertilizer we recommend is the tried-and-true Tree Tone, made by Espoma, a company that has been producing organic fertilizers for eighty years. Espoma also makes fertilizer especially formulated for specific types of trees: both their Citrus Tone and Palm Tone are excellent.

Mulch To Keep Weeds Down

Mulching should be part of your fertilizing efforts: spread a doughnut of mulch six inches from each tree trunk extending out a couple of feet. Besides enriching the soil, mulch will keep weeds to a minimum and discourage the growth of fungi and other sources of disease.

The easiest source of mulch for tree owners are the fallen leaves themselves—rake them up, or use our super-duper leaf sweeper, and then run your lawnmower through the pile to shred them. You can also put them in a garbage pail and use a week whacker to break them up. Then mix them with grass clippings, shredded bark, wood chips, pine needles, or other compost. Put down a few layers of newspaper (no color print) and then apply the mulch on top. Repeat this procedure in the spring and summer.

If you want to avoid this step and opt for a more manicured look, try our Perm-A-Mulch Mats. Made from recycled rubber, these mats surround the tree trunk and resemble hardwood mulch. Like organic mulch, they impede weed growth and yet allow water and nutrients to pass through. Yet they will not be damaged by lawn mowers or trimmers—in fact, you can mow right over them. The only care they need is to be rotated a quarter turn once or twice a year.

Some people have environmental concerns over the use of ground coverings such as synthetic turf, but Perm-A-Mulch Mats will not shed any tiny pellets or other matter than could mix with your soil and contaminate it. They are all of one piece, and are so durable that they hold up for ten years or more. In any case, I have used them on my own trees, and would never want to do without them.

Protect Your Young Trees from Animals and Machines

If there’s a chance your young trees or shrubs might get damaged by animals or machinery, surround them with some protective material. Nowadays, lightweight products such as Clark’s Vinyl Tree Guards and Gardeneer® Tree Guard™ Protective Wrap are available that have replaced the wire mesh and hardwire cloth of the past. Wrapping the trunk with a commercial tree wrap such as Clark’s Tree Wrap will prevent sunscald. Put the wrap on in the fall and remove it in the spring after the last frost. Wraps should only be used on young trees.

Give Your Back A Rest

Finally, we’d like to tell you more about the leaf sweeper we mentioned in passing earlier, because it’s such a unique and interesting new product. For generations, the rake has been the tool of choice for tree owners in the fall, and there’s certainly something to be said for getting the exercise. But raking can become a burden to elders, as well as to new parents and busy career folks and anyone who just doesn’t have the time to get out there and do it.

The Lambert Deluxe Lawn Sweeper—31” Push Sweeper takes the hassle out of raking: you just push it over your lawn and it collects the leaves automatically into a bag. When the bag is full, you dump it, and then continue pushing it around your lawn, just like an old-fashioned push lawnmower, but easier. The only sounds you’ll hear will be the crunching of the leaves and the movement of the mechanical parts. It also works on driveways, sidewalks, and parking lots. As a special introductory offer, we’re offering the Leaf Sweeper for $220 this month, a $50 discount off the usual price.

That’s all for now—we will be in touch mid-month to discuss two other essential aspects of tree care, pruning and staking, and we’ll also give you some advice about tree planting. Until then, enjoy the fall weather and take advantage of a 25% discount on all other products mentioned in this newsletter: just order before October 8th and enter code 2009TD at checkout.

I have planted carrots, radishes and spinach all from organic seeds from Lowe’s. They don’t seem to be growing after planting indoors or out. I purchased organic dirt with food already in the soil. What am I doing wrong or what do I need in my soil to help them grow? Rebecca

Answer: I am sorry your seeds didn’t take off but unfortunately you’ve provided way too little information to determine why they did not perform. Every seed has its own particular needs to establish germination. Just using a product labeled “organic” is not a guarantee of a healthy plant if the correct growing conditions are not met. I would suggest you research the needs for each item. 

For instance, spinach is a cool season crop that likes nice cool nights and warmish days with good even moisture, making it perfect to plant in most areas of the country right now. Why don’t you try some of our Bloomsdale or Samish Organic Seed. Follow the directions listed on the seed packet and you will have a nice crop of spinach in approximately 45 days.

Keep trying and best of luck!

Karen

Anyone who has ever attempted to germinate their own seedlings, indoors, for a head start on their garden has probably had a great number of failures, sometimes equal to or greater than their successes. Unfortunately, starting seeds outside in the garden can be just as unfulfilling. Weather conditions, especially in early spring, can greatly affect the number, if any, of seeds that will grow to healthy plants.

Seeds require specific conditions for optimal growth, and those conditions can be hard to meet when germinating seeds in egg cartons on your windowsill. Temperatures fluctuate, cloudy days occur, humidity is not constant, especially when the weather is still cold outside, and it is so easy to over water or under water. Basically, if you just miss one day of careful attention to those babies…well, you know….you’ve been there.

Jiffy-7® products have taken much of the guess work out of seed germination. The Jiffy-7 products optimize growing conditions, resulting in a much higher, sometimes as high as 100%, germination rate. The heat mats or heated germination units provide a constant, thermostatically controlled temperature, so important to starting seeds on their growth cycle. The domed greenhouse-like lids insure that the humidity remains high and stable, something which is almost impossible to achieve without a greenhouse. Jiffy has thought of everything. Even the Jiffy-7 peat pellets, specifically designed to fit their trays, have been enhanced with the necessary minerals and vitamins necessary for seed germination. Jiffy-7 trays are re-usable and recyclable. They come with complete instructions so even the novice can succeed at this delicate task.

Make your life easier! We all get great pleasure from watching those seeds sprout and grow into healthy plants to be transplanted to our springtime gardens. Quit wasting money on seeds that never sprout and on growing medium that goes to waste. Jiffy-7 makes it easy to maintain the proper growing conditions!  Insure your success by investing in these Jiffy-7 products; you will find them invaluable in terms of your success and the productivity and beauty of your gardens.