Kohlrabi is the perfect diet food: one cup contains fewer than 40 calories but it packs a wholloping 5 grams of fiber!  It’s a good source of potassium and calcium, as well as vitamins A and C and folic acid.  Sliced and served raw with dip, it will disappear quickly from appetizer plates.  It’s popping up in recipes from basic to exotic, for cooking in curries and soups and casseroles. The texture is satisfying as a crunchy raw snack, and it’s mild enough to go well with most dressings and dips. Cooked, it acquires a soft texture and mixes wonderfully with butter or cream sauces, and nearly every seasoning. Kids love kohlrabi because of its sweet, delicate flavor.

Kohlrabi will store well in a root cellar or refrigerator for up to a month, but make sure to harvest or buy globes that are firm and fresh looking, with no yellowing on the leaves. The sweetest and most ideal size for harvest is 2 to 2 1/2 inches in diameter.

A cruciferous vegetable related to cabbage and cauliflower, kohlrabi is similar in flavor to broccoli stems or a very mild radish. Kohlrabi is simple to prepare: use a very sharp knife and peel carefully, as the outer skin can be tough and woody. Once the white globe is revealed, you can create all kinds of wonderful snacks, side dishes or entrees. Cut the raw flesh into round slices or long spears to munch on instead of starchy snacks. Coat cubes with olive oil and roast to get a caramelized glaze, bringing out the natural sugars. Mix julienned slices with raw carrots and mayonnaise for an inventive cole slaw.  Steam diced kohlrabi and top with butter for a satisfying side dish.

Sliced kohlrabi is firm enough to make excellent pickle spears. The stems and leaves can be cooked or mixed raw into dishes along with the white interior.

When harvesting kohlrabi or buying bunches in the supermarket, choose firm, heavy bulbs with no blemishes on the outer surfaces. The larger the globes, the tougher the outer skin.

Gardeners love how hardy kohlrabi is.  It prefers cooler temperatures and will produce a spring and fall crop in some growing regions.  Seeds can be sown as soon as the soil can be worked, or they can be started indoors and transplanted. They require very little space, needing to be spaced only 6 inches apart.  Kohlrabi grows quickly and can even tolerate some snow, for late fall harvests.  This vegetable is relatively disease and insect resistant and it will thrive in most well-drained soils. Mix a good organic compost into the soil and use a general purpose fertilizer to promote quick growth. Water generously throughout the growing season to produce the most moist and mild-flavored vegetable. Clip the green leaves any time to cook like spinach.

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Traditional asparagus varieties have male and female plants. Female plants produce spears but also produce seed when the plant is in the fern stage. The production of seed takes the plant’s energy and nutrients, reducing the yield of the tasty spears. Also, the seeds fall to the ground and germinate, creating a weeding hassle in the garden.

The perennial asparagus plant can be grown in the same garden for 20+ years. The plant is prized for its flavorful and nutritious spears. The crown of the plant is the critical growth center. As each growing season progresses, the rhizomes develop buds that produce the spears for the following warm-weather months.

All-male asparagus varieties, like the Jersey Giant and Jersey Knight hybrids, are renowned for their heavy yields, producing 2 to 3 times the thick, tasty spears of traditional varieties. Jersey Giant and Jersey Knight are especially well suited for temperate and cool climates. Jersey Knight is even tolerant of hard freezes and can be grown in many parts of the U.S. to Zone 3.

Attractive, dark green spears with purple bracts are large, uniform, and succulent. These frost- hardy all-male Jersey hybrids are resistant to rust, Fusarium wilt, and crown and root rot.

If you’ve never experimented with the new all-male Jersey hybrid varieties, try planting a few each of Jersey Giant and Jersey Knight to see which ones do best in your soil, sunlight, temperature and moisture conditions.

Asparagus should be grown in either full or part sun and dry to average soil. Asparagus is best planted as one- or two-year-old bare root plants in early spring. First, make a trench about 8 inches deep in soil with good drainage. Add organic matter and a Triple Superphosphate Fertilizer to the bottom of the trench. Space plants about 18 inches apart in the row. Cover the crowns with soil and water moderately to settle the soil and eliminate air pockets. Gradually fill in the trench as the young plants grow. Asparagus roots will spread horizontally underground as the plant matures.

Do not harvest any asparagus spears the first year after planting. A light harvest can be made the second and third years. In subsequent years, the harvesting period should end by mid- to late June to allow for growth and plant nutrient storage.

Asparagus spears are considered a delicacy by many, coveted because of the delicate flavors, interesting textures, and versatility of preparations. Fresh spears can be boiled, broiled, baked, steamed, or roasted. Roasting imparts a caramelized exterior and the sweetest flavors.

Pickling asparagus allows it to be combined with a variety of seasonings to suit every palate, and the spears maintain a soft but consistent, firm texture, perfect as an appetizer or hors d’oeuvre. Asparagus can be frozen, canned, or pickled, and there are countless recipes on the Internet and in cookbooks for preserving your harvest’s overstock. Jersey Giant and Jersey Knight are varieties especially well suited to home canners and those with a desire to enjoy the unique flavors and nutritional value of asparagus all winter long, because the produce is abundant, providing meals at harvest and long into the cold months.

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However, if you have squirrels in your neighborhood, you know how fast they can devour a feeder displaying seed or suet. There’s nothing more aggravating than having an unintended animal destroy the food or feeder you’ve worked so lovingly to provide for your feathered friends.

Squirrels and birds are attracted to many of the same foods—seeds, in particular. And the simple fact is that squirrels will eat bird seed faster than you can refill it. They can also ruin a feeder designed for animals a fraction of their weight. They’ll use their teeth to gnaw on anything that has the scent of food. So, what’s a birdwatcher to do?

You can’t blame squirrels for taking advantage of a quick and tempting source of food, but you can stop them from eating the birds’ meals. Luckily, man’s brain works faster than a squirrel’s, and now there are many successfully designed squirrel-proof birdfeeders to suit every backyard enthusiast’s needs.

Since feeders for birds are designed to hang from a post, a roof edge, or a tree limb, they are not out of reach of the crafty squirrels. Squirrels seem to enjoy the challenge of accessing food no matter where the feeder is suspended.

Look for squirrel-proof feeders that are specific to your needs. Make sure you find the type of feeder intended for the species of birds you wish to attract, first and foremost. Consider where you’ll place your feeder. You don’t want a heavy metal feeder hanging too closely to a window. You also don’t want a feeder intended for shade to hang fully exposed to the elements. Also, think about the population of squirrels in your area, to determine the durability required of your feeder. And the size of the feeder should be appropriate to the space you have available.

Some squirrel-proof feeders operate by spring-loaded doors, some by gravity alone, and others by physical barrier. Depending on the type of feed you intend to provide, there are also feeders that have openings so small that only the tiniest of beaks can gain access. The Mandarin Ala Cart Birdfeeder provides four separate feed chambers and a squirrel-proof function that will attract many species of birds while foiling the plans of hungry squirrels.

Until squirrels learn how to feed while suspended in air, their weight and size will keep them out of the newest squirrel-proof feeders, and birders will be able to choose who they wish to attract to the feast they’ve provided.

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Haven’t tryed my jam yet, but that’s not really necessary. I received a jar of Mrs. Miller’s jam recently as a birthday gift…my order from you confirms that it’s absolutely JUST THE BEST JAM!

Thanks so very much, R.L.

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Using a food dehydrator, which forces warm, dry air over fruits, veggies or meat, you remove all the moisture and preserve the food, allowing it to be stored on a shelf for months. You can create chewy, flavorful, and in many cases, low-calorie, snacks like apple rings, beef jerky, dried apricots and papaya wedges. It’s also a great way to have soup vegetables always on hand.

Groceries and health food stores have been selling dehydrated, sun-dried or flash-dried foods for years, and dried foods have been popular since the beginning of recorded history. However, store-bought dried foods are expensive, and they can contain artificial preservatives to increase their shelf lives even further.

If you are a gardener, you know there’s always produce left at the end of the season that you can’t get your family to eat. Dehydrating leftovers is a way to have your harvest extend into the dull, gray winter months when you can’t get fresh veggies.

You can inexpensively make your own pineapple rings, homemade raisins and prunes, fruitcake chunks for rehydrating, and fruit leathers. You can also coat your fruits with sugar, cinnamon or other dried baking spices before drying to create more exotic flavors. You no longer have to crave your favorite fruits when they’re out of season. Make their season last year-round!

Dehydrating vegetables is as simple as slicing or dicing and separating on trays. In two days or less, your food dehydrator will produce crispy, crunchy snacks and pantry staples ready for your culinary imagination. Onions, carrots, bell peppers and celery can all be dried for future use in nearly any recipe. Dried corn cut off the cob, green beans, and tomatoes make unusual crisp snacks that are infinitely healthier than fried chips. You can dry your own pinto beans, root crops, squash and any other vegetables that you want to store for adding to casseroles and soups. Dried foods provide all the nutrients and fiber and none of the refined or artificial ingredients that come with store-bought snack foods.

Making your own beef or turkey jerky couldn’t be easier. If you can slice meat, you can have a great chewy (and long-lasting) snack that is irresistible. You can prepare the meat by soaking it in your favorite marinade first. Like it hot? Don’t hold back on the cayenne! Like it tropical? Try rubbing the slices with Jamaican jerk seasonings before drying.

Don’t forget your herbs. Air drying can cause mold or mildew to form on the tender leaves. Drying herbs in a dehydrator is safer and it also preserves the color and flavor better. Nearly every edible herb is suitable for drying.

Every bookstore and library, as well as the Internet, offers recipe books for creative drying of foods using the sun or commercial dehydrators. It’s easy and a foolproof way to get your family snacking on foods you’ll not only approve of, you’ll encourage!

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Gardeners have many open-pollinated and hybrid varieties to choose from, with several sizes, colors and types available. There are shades of reds and purples, orange/yellow, and white with red stripes. Beets come in several shapes, including round, oblong or cylindrical, and they mature in sizes from miniature (silver-dollar diameter) to 3-inch globes.

Beets can be prepared in countless ways: raw (juiced or in salads); cooked (steamed, boiled, roasted); and preserved (canned or pickled). Both the green, leafy tops and the roots (the round bulbous part) are edible and are packed with nutrients. Snip the green tops and rinse in water, then prepare the same way as other edible greens like chard or spinach, by juicing, steaming, or tossing into casseroles and soups to add color and flavor.

Even amateur beet gardeners will enjoy bountiful produce with nearly no effort. Beets can be planted from seed or starter plants. The seeds are actually clusters of seeds within dried fruits. They should be planted in well-drained but moist soil, and spaced in rows a minimum of 12 inches apart. Plant seeds 1/2 inch into the soil, then thin to 3 or 4 inches apart, to allow room for the roots to expand. Beets do like nutrient-rich earth but they require little attention as they grow. The tops can be snipped for meals before the roots are developed, as long as 1/3 of the greens are left intact until root harvest.

Fresh beets are usually available year-round in the grocery, but they’re a great home garden staple, since they can be planted nearly a month before the last frost is anticipated, and they will grow well into fall. If you space the seed planting throughout the summer, you can spread out the harvesting over several months. You can gauge the maturity of the root by sight: they stick up out of the soil enough to see the diameter and you can poke the top to test the firmness. If they’re ripe, you simply grab the tops and pull them out of the ground.

Miniature round beets can be prepared whole, and larger beets can be sliced or diced for serving. Fans of pickled beets know that this veggie is the ideal complement to tangy pickling seasonings. Sliced beets and onions in either a sweet juice or a traditional sour brine are popular with all ages, because the vegetable keeps its crunch and dense texture.

Beet borscht is a Russian soup that is traditionally served cold with a dollop of yogurt or sour cream and a sprinkle of dill on top. It makes a great summertime appetizer because of its gorgeous pink color and refreshing flavor.

Beets and onions both caramelize when roasted, releasing their sugars and giving them a gorgeous outer glaze and striking savory and sweet flavor. It makes an excellent side dish for turkey or lamb meals.

Beets can be stored in a root cellar for up to a couple of months, or kept in sawdust or other dry packing material in a cool, dry place long past the garden’s last warm days.

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It’s a member of the lily family and originated along the shores of the Mediterranean Sea and on its many islands. It was considered a delicacy in Ancient Greece as well as in modern times.

The top asparagus varieties in the world all bear the Jersey name, with Jersey Giant, Jersey Knight and Jersey Supreme among the choices.

Why the emphasis on the Garden State? Well, New Jersey is the fourth largest asparagus producing state, behind California, Washington, and Michigan. And Jersey varieties are hardy, able to grow in Michigan and Washington, as well as in Canadian provinces, including Nova Scotia.

Jersey Giant, Jersey Knight and Jersey Supreme are male hybrids. With asparagus, the males are more productive, and the females handle seed and berry production, thus, fewer resources to devote to producing spears.

Both male and female asparagus plants produce an edible vegetable, but the New Jersey emphasis on male hybrids exists because these varieties are resistant to rust, which is a fungus disease to which asparagus is highly susceptible. The males are also resistant to fusarium rot and crown rot.

When you’re ready to plant, it’s best to start with crowns rather than seeds. You can choose from one- or two-year crowns. You won’t be moving the asparagus bed for many years to come, up to 15 to 20 years, so be sure and plant asparagus out of the way on one side of the garden so you needn’t disturb it in early spring.

First, prepare soil by mixing in organic material, such as compost or rotted manure. And then, when planting, spread out the root system and place crown buds upward, 4 to 6 inches below the level of the surface. Cover crowns with 2 inches of soil. Place the rest alongside the row. When new shoots appear, fill in the trench until it reaches the level of the garden. Water when necessary during the summer. Keep it weed-free, and occasionally add compost or manure.

Asparagus does take space. The rule of thumb is that a patch large enough to satisfy an average family of asparagus lovers should contain at least 50 plants, set 18 inches apart. That translates into a planting bed at least 75 feet long and 3 feet wide.

On the other hand, an asparagus bed can do double duty as an ornamental "hedge." Once the harvest is done for the year, the remaining spears are left to grow into tall, ferny foliage — perfect for camouflaging fences or providing a feathery backdrop for the rest of the garden.

Then, the wait begins for harvest. Don’t touch the delicate stalks the first year. The next year, you can harvest two or three times in the spring. This would be the first year after transplanting. Take it easy and don’t over harvest or you’ll weaken the root system. But after that, you can harvest for up to two solid months. When cutting is completed, allow the fernlike tops to develop and produce leaves.

Cut asparagus when the spears are 6 to 8 inches tall. Use a sharp knife to cut the spear 1 or 2 inches below the surface of the soil.

And then, enjoy. Asparagus is one of the delicacies of the vegetable world.

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