Answer: Pelargonium peltatum ‘Global Stars and Stripes‘ is a hybrid variety and has been cross-bred with other varieties of geraniums to create specific bloom or growth characteristics.  Once the breeder has achieved what they are looking for and it has been tested for some stability, the plant is propagated using a means called tissue culture (think cloning), to generate mass quantities for public sale. When you try to propagate the plants by other means, like cuttings or seeds, the plants can be less stable and possibly “revert” back to parental heritage. It is possible that even your parent plant after several years could revert. These plants are bred to be annuals and so are not generally tested for stability over extended years of growth. There is no way of avoiding or controlling this except to purchase new hybridized plants or accept what the cuttings develop. You never know, you might have something even more interesting!  

Hope this helps,
Karen

Answer: The depth of the boxes sounds just fine for most veggies, as long as they are well-draining containers. If these are self-contained (like large pots), not just frames on the ground, don’t over-plant them, and be sure to fertilize and water on a regular basis. If these are on the ground then the plants will extend their root systems into the ground if they need to, and therefore you might want to just loosen the soil in that area prior to building up the planters. 

The biggest thing to look for when planning a contained garden is the mature size of the plants. With tomatoes, check for ones that are considered “determinate,” meaning they will reach a mature height and stop growing taller, thus keeping a more compact form. Some of the cherry and paste-style tomatoes will fall into the determinate category. (See Elberta Peach Heirloom, and Golden Nugget Cherry Tomato). An “indeterminate” plant will keep growing and growing.   

The mature height for plants like peppers, eggplant, okra, and broccoli will be three to four feet, depending on the variety. For sweet peppers check out, Bell Boy (An All-American Selection Winner) or maybe something a little different like our Pimento L Sweet pepper. Under the hot pepper category, try Garden Salsa, or Hungarian Yellow Wax Heirloom, or the customer favorite, Anaheim Chili Red Hot. 

Onions, parsnips, and turnips don’t get tall but do require some room for the bulb to grow.  To get “bunch” onions it is just a matter of maturity. Once the onions start to grow and at the point they require thinning, growers typically pull these, bundle in bunches and take to markets. Commercial growers use a white Lisbon onion but you could try our Walla-Walla or White Sweet Spanish varieties or even Red Mars. For cabbages you might try the Fast Vantage, as it matures early, which is great for more northern gardens.

Beware of plants like squash or cucumbers that vine and create extremely large plants that will consume a small plot. There are “bush” types (See Burpless Bush) that might work but they still produce relatively large plants.

Strawberries have very particular needs and like to have room to send out runners to create new plants. They would need to have a space that is just for them. Read our information on the strawberry page before incorporating them into your garden.

You could incorporate a vertical element in the center of the beds by adding a bamboo and grips climbing frame or the ring, or use our garden netting to grow beans and peas and surround the outside with low-growing plants like lettuce, spinach or herbs.

Good luck with the gardens. I am sure the residents will enjoy them, especially when harvest time rolls around.

Karen

Answer: Row covers will work to keep out any flying pests but I would use the commercially available fabric – a translucent, spun fabric, and not just cheesecloth, as the holes could be large enough for some pests to get through. However, you would need to make sure the plants are covered when the moths are active in your area. You will still need to check for other forms of crawling pests.

Another method of control is to hand pick and destroy the caterpillars. Cabbage loopers and cabbageworms in the larval stage look similar; both are green caterpillars. They both feed on the underneath side of the leaves and this is also where you would find the eggs. You may also find cutworms, a grayish or brownish grub that feeds not only on stems and leaves but near the ground, feeding on developing cabbage heads; flea beetles leave small round holes; and cabbage aphids will infest the undersides of the plants, causing wrinkled and curled leaves, stunting plants and killing the heads.

If you’re not concerned about a strictly organic process, you can spray the plants with pesticides, making sure each pest is listed on the label. Start with something containing malathion. You can also use BT (bacillus thuringiensis). Spray plants with a forceful stream of water to dislodge the insects and then treat with insecticidal soap; or to control aphids, release ladybugs into your garden. To help control the loopers and similar worms, you can apply neem oil or hot pepper wax or a naturally occurring chemical called rotenone. It’s also possible to create a barrier around each plant with Diatomaceous Earth. Oregano or tansy can be used to discourage flea beetles, and adding tinfoil under plants to reflect sunlight upwards is said to deter aphids.

It’s best to always determine exactly what is “bugging” your crop, then treat…and treat at the appropriate time.

Best of luck,

Karen

Answer: Well, there isn’t a short answer to this question. Here’s why:

Potatoes and sweet potatoes are not related and therefore grow differently. The regular potato is related to the tomato family and the sweet potato is related to the morning glory vine. Sweet potatoes grow as a tuberous root usually more along the surface of the soil, whereas a regular potato is a true tuber and tends to grow up the stem of the plant, which is why you hill the regular potato as it grows up, adding soil to the bags as the plant part grows upward. The sweet potato slips are planted about 12-18 inches apart and about 8 inches deep. There is no reason the bags could not be used just like growing them in a container; the secret here is to make sure you are using a good quality growing medium that is well-drained, making sure all excess water is directed away from the bag.

Another big difference between growing sweet potatoes and regular potatoes is heat.  Sweet potatoes like it hot, just like their cousins the annual morning glories and sweet potato vines. If you get evenings where the nights are going to get down into the low 40s, you might want to find a way to protect the plant and pot from the cool temps by constructing some sort of wind barrier around them.

Potato bags were designed to facilitate the “hilling” process required to grow potatoes, but that doesn’t mean you could not use them to grow sweet potatoes. Keep the well-draining soil deep enough to plant your slips with adequate room for development, and allow for the same spacing as you would in the ground: 12-18″ apart and 3 to 4 feet between rows. 

Good luck with sweet potatoes. They are a wonderful addition to the vegetable garden and a nutritious addition to your meals.

Karen

Answer: For starters your USDA Hardiness Zones are 8a & 8b.  Spring: Jan. 15 – March 1; Fall: Oct. 1 – Dec. 1. This has been an unseasonable winter most everywhere so we all have to adjust slightly. Usually most “cool season” plants in your area can go in the ground late January thru March; your tomatoes, peppers and eggplant transplants should go out around mid-March. If the weather is still cold you might consider a cold-frame to begin the transition out. By then the days should be warming but there is still the chance for cooler nights when the transplants would need protection. You might also consider some of the Season Starter (Wall o’ Water protectors). I’ve used them here in the cold Midwest and they do help protect on those unexpected cold nights. Make sure your soil is enriched by adding lots of compost and some well-balanced garden fertilizer before you plant. If your soil is very compact, consider creating raised beds with well-amended soil. A proper growing medium and good watering practices are the best protection against most environmental changes.

Your cool season plants can be grown in temperatures that are 10-15 degrees cooler and can be grown spring and replanted in the fall. These would include: asparagus, artichoke, beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrot, cauliflower, celery, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, peas, radish, spinach, Swiss chard, and turnip. These are the ones that would go out between Jan.15 and March 1 and then in October thru December. Many of the leaf crops can actually be seeded out when snow is still on the ground. 

Beans, tomatoes, eggplant and peppers should be ready to go out by mid-March and most of these should be about ready for harvest by the time your really hot season begins. If you check each variety you will see that they are labeled with a “days to harvest” number.  The shorter this time is the less likely you are to have to deal with the extreme heat. There are also a few varieties of tomatoes that are labeled “heat tolerant,” such as our Arkansas Traveler, so you might consider that, as well. If it would turn hot, then the best thing to do is to make sure the plants stay well watered, often twice a day. You might want to consider a soaker hose and a drip irrigation system that is set up on a timer. That way if you have to be away, the plants don’t wilt and die. Another thing you might want to consider is creating a shade system. Shade cloth is generally used to protect greenhouses from extreme heat build-up but you could create a frame with bamboo or wooden stakes that could be used to shade the plants, something like an arbor with the shade cloth that would block out the hottest midday sun. You could also look at a row cover system that has hoops, but instead of the row cover cloth use the shade cloth that will allow air to escape. 

By far the best protection is a good environment, which means well-composted soil and consistent and even watering.

Best of luck with your garden this year. I wish you a bountiful harvest.

Karen

Answer: This is a great plant. In general most of the Euphorbia Plants are pretty carefree, not needing any special treatment. Tasmanian Tiger was discovered in Tasmania and brought to the States in 1998. This Euphorbia is a Zone 6-9 plant that will prefer a hot and dry site and will tolerate a more sandy soil. It is deer resistant and can spread, creating a striking ground cover. It only needs to be cut back by about a third to prevent seeding out and it really prefers to not be transplanted. Take caution when cut, as it emits a milky sap that can be an irritant to some people. It’s a great plant when paired with other perennials, like salvias or dark-leaved Heucheras, which better tolerate sun. 

Hope that helps you enjoy them even more. Karen

Answer: We carry many varieties of broccoli, cauliflower, sweet peppers, and tomatoes and while we don’t carry Sunmaster, there are several heat-tolerant tomato varieties included in our options.

Here are a few general garden tips to help:

Soil

• Fertile, well drained soil is the best asset for your garden, so each planting season before you begin to add your plants supplement your soil with additional organic matter. This could be from your own compost pile or other well-composted manure or leaf mold.  Just work it into the soil. In addition, it helps to add a balanced fertilizer at the recommended rate. 
• Knowing the pH of your soil is important but also knowing what pH each plant prefers is even more important. Except for tomatoes, the plants you have listed prefer a pH rate around 6.0 – 7.0. Tomatoes prefer more on the acidic side between 5.0 -7.0 so you might want to add a soil acidifier if your soil is testing more alkaline.  Always check the recommended rate before applying. You will not be able to make a dramatic change in your soil’s pH in one season, but with your raised bed and mixed soil you should be about where you need to be.
• Keep your garden area weed-free, as the weeds compete with your plants for nutrients from the soil and can reduce the plant growth and overall health. A great mulch option is to lay newspaper (not the coated color pages) down around the plants and in between the rows, and then put straw or mulch on top to keep it in place. This not only suppresses the weeds; it also keeps the roots cool and helps to hold in the moisture.

Water

• Water can be tricky, depending on your location. Mulching will help, as will adding a drip irrigation system. They do not need to be fancy but getting the water right to the root system of the plants is the most efficient and effective method of watering. You can add timers to make it a little more automated.
• In dry spells make sure plants receive at least an inch or more of water a week. Over-watering is as detrimental as under-watering, and each plant has specific needs. Do some research on what each one prefers. Plant those with similar requirements close together to help with watering chores.
• Do not water in the late evening, as this can encourage mildews and other diseases. Early morning is always the best.
• Plants get their oxygen from the soil and if it is constantly soggy they cannot take it in. 

Plants and Pests

• If you order plants from us we do everything we can to protect them and ensure they arrive safely.  You should unpack them as soon as possible and set them out in a sheltered location for a few days to acclimate to your environment and conditions, making sure they stay evenly moist.
• All plants have different maturity dates (the time from blossom to harvest). Make sure you keep a list of these so you will know when you can begin harvesting. Also some shorter-seasoned plants can have a second planting, so you’ll want to leave some space to add these in. 
• About spacing, don’t over-crowd. This can lead to pest and disease problems. It’s really very easy to think those tiny seedlings look lost in the big garden but remember, they do get bigger, and some very big. Check the labeling for plant spacing suggestions so you’ll get the fruits of your labor. 
• If your tomatoes are indeterminate varieties, be sure to have a plan for support of them. These are the ones that keep on growing and growing…
• Buy disease- and pest-resistant varieties. All garden plants are susceptible to various pests and problems. Read up on what to watch for with each variety.
• Get a reference book on “good bugs / bad bugs” and don’t kill the ones working for you. You might want to also do some research on companion planting as an organic method of pest control.
• Plants are like people. They have distinct likes and dislikes, so getting to know what each one likes will ensure the best harvest.
• At the end of the season, add disease-free plant material to your compost bin so you recycle it next spring right back into your garden. If you used newspaper and mulch, these can be turned into the beds along with chopped-up leaves for added organic matter.

These should get you started.  Remember your local food pantry for any extra harvest you cannot use!  Most are very excited to receive such gifts.

Happy Gardening!

Karen

Master Gardener

Ellen L.

Answer: The really great thing about herbs is that they do wonderfully in pots, almost anywhere in the country. Many northerners bring their potted herbs indoors to grow all winter long. They will thrive without an artificial light source, and since you are in South Florida they should be fine in a sunny location in the winter and probably welcome a little shade in the hot summer months. Any of our herb plants will grow in pots.  Herbs that are robust spreaders, like mints, are ideal for pots, to keep their spreading habit contained. Rosemary does very well in the South where it is used as a landscaping shrub and it has a most wonderful fragrance. Don’t be afraid to mix and match them since there is a variety of leaf textures and colors that will make for not only an aromatic wonderland but a visually appealing arrangement, as well. However, herbs planted in the same pot can start to take on the flavors of their neighbors, with strong flavors such as cilantro seeping into milder herbs like parsley. You could even tuck a few different varieties of leaf lettuce or spinach plants in among the herbs. If you wish to grow herbs singularly in containers, I suggest nothing smaller than an 8-inch pot, as most like to get large and spread out.

Happy growing,

Karen

I could really use some help on plant layout; with the plastic I am worried about standing water and the mosquitos. Should I cover the plastic with hay? Will that help? Do you know anything about the garlic mosquito spray? Is it safe to use on growing gardens? Would getting worms be a good idea or a waste? Are there particular plants that are easy/hard to grow from seeds that I should/shouldn’t spend the money to buy?

And anything else I haven’t thought of? Any and all help would be greatly appreciated!

T Palmer

Answer: Well T, your questions are good ones, but it’s going to be tough to address them all in this space.  As a first-time gardener, I would suggest you start with a bit smaller garden plot. You’ve planned a pretty ambitious size for a newbie. As for what to grow, GHS offers a wide selection of wonderful certified organic seeds and live plant options but what you grow depends on several factors: soil conditions [clay vs. sandy], sun conditions [8 hours of sun for most vegetables], what Zone you are in [important to know so you can determine last frost date and growing season], and what you like to eat [some things are fun to grow but you might not consume them], for starters. 

There are also different types of cool season plants like lettuce and spinach that can be planted even before the last chance of frost, and warm season plants like tomatoes that don’t thrive until it gets good and hot! Some cool season crops can be replanted in the fall, so you are planting in succession throughout the growing season.

For organic gardening you may want to reconsider the tilling, depending on your location.  Bringing subsoil to the surface can allow dormant weed seed to resurface. Instead, do some research on creating rows of raised beds. It will make working with your plants a bit easier and might be a good workaround for the sloped areas. These can easily be constructed with 4×4 or 4×6 timbers. It will also help with your standing water problem, as you could either leave the grass between the rows or use mulch. The new soil will allow the water to drain off properly and not puddle. Creating the raised beds will also allow you to more easily control the content of the soil and make sure your pH is balanced for vegetable growth and it will allow you to easily install a drip irrigation system for targeted watering.

You might also consider container gardening for some crops like potatoes or smaller tomatoes, and of course, herbs and flowers.

Vines will grow on about anything. You can make climbing grids with bamboo poles and twine, or try our trellis netting or other plant supports, which are easy to store after the season.  

To control weeds you can use our plastic mulch but depending on your location it can also work against you by overheating the soil in the summer. You can also use a thick layer of newspaper covered with either hardwood mulch or grass clippings (grass that has not been treated with a herbicide). This will also allow the water to completely permeate the soil.

For companion planting check out this book and other instructional books in Our Library.  There are many excellent resources for which plants work together, and equally important which to NOT plant together. 

For your mosquitos and other pests we have several options; where and when you can use them will depend on what stage the vegetable is in. Most of the organic controls can be used prior to harvest, but always read the label for directions for use with edible plants. Another pest for many gardeners will be rabbits and sometimes deer, so especially for rabbits you may want to consider fencing in areas of the garden to keep them out. Watch plant labels for varieties that deer find less appetizing. 

Check online for resources that distinguish Good Bugs versus Bad Bugs. There are many beneficial insects out there and most pesticides are non-selective, so always know what you are going after and read the labels of any products to make sure you are affecting only what you need to.

To get started you’ll want some graph paper. Start laying things out to determine how many plants you will need (and usually not as many as you might think, unless you like to can, freeze or give away). Check your Growing Zone and know when your growing season begins. Your county extension office might have a chart that gives the best starting time for vegetables that grow in your area. Our spring shipping dates are now online, so you can begin to order plants based on those dates.

Leave enough room somewhere in your yard for a compost bin. This will generate lots of free organic matter that your garden will need at the end of the season to regenerate itself. Gardening is a great family activity and a lifelong learning experience.  Make sure everyone chips in to pull weeds, water, trim and reap the harvest in just a few months.

Good Luck!

Answer: I’m not an expert on tropicals, although I do like to grow them as houseplants. I have checked with a few resources but I have no definitive answer, because there is limited information available. I can offer a few suggestions. Yours sounds like a “tree” variety of philodendron, that actually produces more of a trunk than do other varieties that tend to be more of a vine. There are hundreds of species within the genus. Since I am not sure of the variety you have, here are a few options. If yours looks like the typical houseplant variety and landscape variety of the South, then these suggestions should work. Philodendrons are pretty easy to take cuttings from. Just make sure you have at least two joints or leaf nodes, root them in a sand and peat moss mix or in water. Then you could take these cuttings and start the plant over at the smaller size. One reference did say to just cut the plants back, again rooting the part cut off to start more plants. I would suggest for either option to try this first on just one of the four stems to test the plant. According to another reference, some varieties are able to withstand light frost that kills the top growth but they recover from the below-ground root system. 

I would also add that unless they are just becoming too large for the space, let them remain in a more tree form and plant something interesting underneath them to cover the trunks. There are a number of cordylines or dracaenas, grasses, ferns, rosemary and crotons that might work and would be a nice visual contrast.

Hope this helps and good luck.

Karen