Of all the flowers known for being at home in containers, one of the most popular is the geranium. Since these plants are profuse bloomers and they have a neat, compact growing habit, they are perfect as potted beauties, in addition to being a lush color burst in any landscape bed or walkway.
Geraniums prefer a day of full sun, but they will thrive indoors in a bright window as well as outdoors. So, choose your planter box, pot or other container (making sure it has proper drainage to prevent soil rot at the bottom), fill it with rich potting soil, add your favorite geranium, provide it plenty of sunlight, and then prepare to be dazzled.
You can enhance the container-potted geranium with accents like tall, spikey Dracaena in the center of the planting, or asparagus fern or other trailing plants like Sweet Potato or Vinca Vine around the outer edges of the pot. Since Geraniums flower continually and abundantly throughout the warm season, they do best with only foliage accents and not competing flowers in the same pot.
Regal Geraniums are available in a palette of rich, deep colors, including Velvet Red, Maroon, Burgundy, Black (which is really an intense, dark red), Double-hued Pink, and Clarina, a two-toned violet-colored flower. They also are available in delicate pinks and lilacs.
Ivy Geraniums come in a rich dark burgundy appropriately named Merlot, Ruby Red and Salmon Rose. Stars & Stripes Ivy Geranium and Sangria Ivy Geranium are bi-color, semi-double flowers. All have a mounding habit and look neat and lush in a large pot.
Some geraniums are beloved for their foliage as much as their flowers. There are varieties featuring scented greenery, with fragrances as interesting as Chocolate Mint, Citronella, Ginger and Cedar-Eucalyptus. Some specialty varieties have brilliantly colored leaves, with hues ranging from yellow-lime to rich glossy emerald, and variegated with contrasting shades of cream, white, rust, gold or rings of red.
As a container plant, the geranium will thrive as a perennial, if allowed to winter indoors in a sunny window. It will undergo a mild period of dormancy but can even flower in the off season, if conditions are right. Whether indoors or out, make sure to turn your container occasionally so all sides get equal sun exposure, to allow the plant to grow symmetrically.
The biggest advantage of potting your geraniums is that you can continue to enjoy them indoors, long after the first frost has zapped the rest of your annual flowers.
The other obvious advantage is that you can surround yourself with color where you don’t have landscape beds available, like on porches, decks or patios.
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on Wednesday, August 18th, 2010 at 1:08 pm and is filed under Growing Tips.
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There is nothing quite like a fresh, juicy tomato right out of your own garden. Tomatoes are the most widely grown among the home-gardener. In fact, when gardeners don’t grow any other kind of vegetable, they will grow tomatoes in garden plots and in pots on patios. This is also usually the first vegetable plant that a novice will grow. It will help to know what the most common problems are and what the solutions will be, in advance, so that you can be properly prepared.
Blossom-End Rot—Often called End Rot, Tomato End Rot or BER is probably the most common tomato problem for home gardeners. It appears as a leathery, brownish area that is indented on the blossom end of the tomato. It can be anywhere from the size of a dime to about the size of a half dollar. Fluctuations in moisture levels combined with a calcium deficiency will usually result in BER. Providing consistent moisture to your tomato plants and mulching to maintain moisture levels will help, as will insuring that you have the proper amount of calcium for all of your garden plants. Nutri-Cal® is our supplement of choice.
Tomato Skins Splitting or Cracking—This, though an unsightly problem, is not a problem that will prevent the fruit from being eaten. Cracking or splitting usually occurs because of sudden accelerated growth that can come about due to a sudden increase in moisture after a dry period. It can also occur when the fruit is overripe. Providing consistent moisture and planting hybrid varieties that are less prone to cracking may solve the problem. Cherry tomatoes are the most prolific sufferers of cracking. Picking them when they are ripe or almost ripe, just before a predicted rain storm, will often prevent these from cracking.
Tomato Hornworm—If you start to see chewed up leaves and fruits that are still unripe but damaged, start scouring your plants for tomato hornworms. Amazingly able to blend in to your tomato plants, once you see one you will wonder how in the world you ever missed seeing it to begin with. They are HUGE and one of the ugliest, grayish-greenish wormy looking things you’ll ever see. There are a few companion plants you can plant to discourage hornworms. You can plant marigolds, dill, or opal basil. You can also do things that will invite birds to your garden, such as putting out bird feeders and bird baths or providing bird houses. Ladybugs, wasps and lacewings will eat the hornworm eggs and some people have found that using a hot pepper spray is really effective. But, to begin with, you’ll have to pick those darn things off your tomato plants.
Yellow Leaves—If the leaves are uncurled and yellowing at the bottom of the plant, this may actually just be a sign of the plant starting to die off at the end of the season; but if this occurs while your plant is still actively blooming or early in the season, you most likely have a nitrogen deficiency. This can also be an early sign of other problems like a pest, a fungus or a bacterium, but your first step should be to use a soil tester to determine if it is a nitrogen deficiency and then use a nitrogen-rich supplement in order to increase the amount of nitrogen. Proper soil preparation prior to planting, with good organic material or compost, would also have prevented this condition.
Late Blight—This blight develops as water-soaked patches that turn brown and appear dry and papery. The fungus is normally present when the weather is very wet and the spores can travel long distances, infecting very large areas. Preventing Late Blight is possible by rotating your crops annually and by maintaining good air circulation around your plants. If you think that you have Late Blight, remove all the diseased stems, leaves and fruit and throw them away. You shouldn’t put them in the compost pile. In fact, if your plants are severely infected, you may have to dispose of all of your plants. If you think your plants are salvageable, you might try Bonide Copper Dust.
Early Blight—This is a fungus that survives the winter on old vines and then rears its ugly head on your new plants. The best solution is to clean up old vines when the season ends, rotate your planting areas and space the plants according to recommendations in order to allow for good air circulation. You will know its Early Blight when you see blackish-brownish spots on tomato leaves, the leaves start to drop off or you have “sunburned” fruit. If caught early, you can use Bonide Copper Dust, which can be used as either a dust or a spray and is an organic solution to Early Blight and many other diseases that has been used for more than 150 years.
Flowers Form But Drop Before Fruiting—This normally happens when the weather is going through changes that are not common for your area. If nighttime temperatures drop below 55°F or if daytime temps are higher than 95°F with nighttime temperatures that don’t drop below 75°F, you may have a much larger occurrence of blossom drop. If the plant is not blooming during these periods, you have nothing to worry about. Mulch can help to keep the moisture level in your garden adequate for the plants. If the hot temps are occurring at the same time as hot, drying winds, mulching can be really important. Garden Harvest Supply staffers use Bonide Tomato Blossom Set on their own tomato plants. This organic growth hormone not only allows the blossoms to withstand these weather extremes but will increase the yield and quality of your tomato plants.
Shiny, Sticky & Deformed Leaves—This condition can be the result of aphids, whiteflies or spider mites. Aphids are the most common. They suck the plant sap and excrete a sticky substance on the leaves and fruit. They tend to congregate either on the top growth or the undersides of the leaves and are small, dark, pear-shaped insects. Spider mites will cause bunches of small yellow specks and spin fine webs on the leaves, making them feel sticky. Whiteflies, on the other hand, will actually fly when you brush the plant. If you shake the plant, they may look like dust. So, how do you deal with them? Keeping your tomato plants well-weeded will help, to some degree. But to obliterate them and keep them totally under control, use Safer® Insecticidal Soap.
Fusarium and Verticillium Wilt—Both of these are caused by an incurable fungal infection. Once a plant has either one, you should dispose of the plant immediately, in the garbage; do not add to the compost pile. You will recognize Fusarium Wilt when the leaves on one branch of the infected plant start wilting and then turning yellow. Verticillium Wilt is noticeable as yellowing starts appearing between the major veins on already mature leaves. The only way to avoid either of these is to select a hybrid variety that is resistant to wilt or to buy your plants from a very reputable grower like Garden Harvest Supply. Almost without fail, these two types of wilt will occur in plants from a large retailer that doesn’t specialize in gardening. Garden Harvest Supply grows all of their own plants and adheres to strict organic guidelines. All of our seeds are “certified organic”, which means they are grown by “certified” growers all over the nation—the best of the best. If you experience either of these problems, we want to know.
Nematodes—This insect is virtually invisible. They live under the soil and cause the root of the plant to swell. The only sign will be stunted plants and discolored leaves. These microscopic eelworms are soil-born, so there is no “cure” for them. Fortunately, your tomato plants will still bear edible fruit, but once you;ve discovered the culprit, you will have to wait until next year to address the problem. One of the most common fixes is to simply plant marigolds with your tomatoes. They look pretty and killing Nematodes is not the only beneficial reason to plant marigolds. You might try “Nema-gone”, “Golden Guardian” or “Tangerine”. These varieties, among others, release a chemical into the soil that kills Nematodes. There are also many plants that you can “companion” plant that will “help” the tomato plant. Check out this fantastic book from our library.
I’ve grown tomatoes and had none of these problems on a good year and multiple problems on a bad year. I’ve learned that soil quality and paying a bit of daily attention to my tomato plants will yield the best crop. Here’s wishing you many beautiful and yummy tomatoes!
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on Thursday, August 12th, 2010 at 11:44 am and is filed under Growing Tips.
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Blossom-End Rot, a.k.a. BER, is not a disease, but the result of a calcium deficiency that is usually caused by inconsistent watering. Both drought conditions and over-watering from irrigation, heavy rains or even high humidity levels can cause your tomato plants to suffer from a calcium deficiency and BER. It is also thought that highly acidic soils contribute to this condition and any damage to the roots caused by severe root pruning or improper transplanting can also have the same results, so handle those roots carefully.
Blossom-End Rot can be recognized by a leathery, brown rot developing on or near the blossom end of the tomato. Normally starting with a brown lesion about the size of a dime, it will increase in size as the condition gets worse. Over time those lesions may become covered with a black mold. BER not only affects the quality of the fruit, but can affect the quantity as well.
There are some fairly simple steps that you can take to reduce the possibility of Blossom-End Rot:
Make sure to provide adequate water. While putting on fruit, tomatoes need about 1.5 inches of water a week. You may need to increase this during very hot times, watering in the early morning to prevent leaf burn. You may also have to decrease water during periods of heavy rain. If you are not sure how much water your tomatoes are getting, place a coffee can or other similar sized container near your tomato plants but unobstructed. You can then measure the amount of water mid-week and adjust accordingly. A more precise means of measurement is a strategically-placed rain gauge.
Using mulch will conserve moisture. You can use newspapers, straw or rubber mulches.
Tomatoes grow best and the incidents of BER are reduced when you keep the soil pH between 6.0 and 6.5. A soil tester is one of the best tools a gardener can have in his or her arsenal. The lower end of the pH scale represents more acidic soil while the higher end of the scale is indicative of more alkaline soil. 7.0 is the neutral point. You can decrease the pH by adding sulfur, which is approved for organic gardening, or by adding compost or other organic matter, which takes longer but builds soil quality as well as reducing the need for additional fertilizers. Soil, over time, will revert back to its natural state, so periodic soil testing is a good idea. Organic limestone is the most common additive to raise the pH in your soil. Some lime may require adding prior to planting, so read those package directions carefully. Wood ash is also effective, but it breaks down quickly which can result in over-application, which can be devastating to your soil.
Apply fertilizers or essential nutrients properly and with care. Over fertilizing can bring on BER. Soil testing is the only fool-proof way to insure proper fertilization.
If your tomato plants develop Blossom-End Rot, you can treat them by spraying them with a calcium solution at the rate of 4 level tablespoons per 1 gallon of water. You can use either calcium chloride or calcium nitrate, but be aware that when temperatures are higher than 85°F calcium chloride can burn your plants. You should spray 2-3 times per week, starting as the second fruit clusters are blooming.
It is also true that some varieties of tomatoes are more susceptible than others. It might be to your benefit to grow a number of varieties, making notes on which tomato plants perform best and have the fewest incidents of BER and other issues. When making notes, also note the weather conditions, as these can also affect how your garden grows. Taking this simple step will insure that you grow the best varieties for your soil and for your climate, insuring a most bountiful harvest.
This entry was posted
on Friday, July 30th, 2010 at 10:49 am and is filed under Growing Tips.
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Every tomato lover knows homegrown are in a class of their own. Luckily, tomato plants are vigorous growers that require very little effort on the gardener’s part.
Tomato plants prefer full sunlight and a warm environment, but extreme heat can alter their ability to be pollinated and produce fruit. During periods of high temperatures, garden vegetables need more attention than usual.
High heat quickly evaporates the soil’s moisture, so vigilant daily watering is mandatory. Plants will droop and wilt to let you know they’re thirsty and stressed from the dry, hot climate. Swan’s Soaker Hoses are available in different lengths and are made of environmentally friendly recycled rubber. These hoses lie flat on the ground and maximize watering efficiency by minimizing evaporation. They deliver a steady and consistent flow of water where you want it, directly to the soil.
Maintaining soil health throughout the growing season is also necessary to fortify plants against harsh conditions. Tomatoes need a fertile growing medium and they respond with noticeable results to products like Espoma’s Tomato Tone or Hi-Yield Garden Fertilizer. Follow manufacturers’ instructions about feeding or fertilizing plants during drought periods.
Better Reds is a red plastic mulch that is touted to promote better growth and production in tomatoes by reflecting far-red light frequencies (like the sun’s) to the undersides of the plant’s leaves and fruits. It helps to hold moisture in the soil and keeps weeds at bay, as well.
Extreme conditions can also include unexpected frosts in late spring or early fall. Protect your plants and extend their lives by covering them at night when temperatures are expected to dip to 40 degrees or less. The Season Starter Plant Protector (formerly called Wall O Water) is a plastic, water-filled ring that surrounds the plant. It absorbs heat during the day and holds it in at night to guard against cooler ambient temps.
Plant and seed blankets, garden row covers, sheets of cotton or natural burlap, and even tall piles of extra mulch can help protect plants from extreme hot or cold. Greenhouses aren’t an option for every grower, but they also provide a more controlled climate for young plants that are awaiting optimum spring planting in the ground.
One other option for protecting tomatoes from harsh temperatures or erratic rainfall is to plant in containers. That allows the grower to move the plants to areas where they’ll have temporary shelter from extreme hot or cold, or be closer to a source of water, or even be more easily found by the insects that pollinate them.
This entry was posted
on Friday, July 16th, 2010 at 2:28 pm and is filed under Growing Tips.
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Container gardening can offer the opportunity to garden on a balcony or patio, or the ability to place plants in optimum sunlight where a garden plot might not be feasible, or the mobility to relocate the garden as needed, so insects and vermin can’t get to prized young vegetables.
The greatest plus to growing produce in containers is the option of planting earlier in the season than the ground might allow. Any durable container can be used, such as buckets, trash cans, feeding troughs, plastic pails, or standard large flowerpots.
Containers need drainage holes in the bottom so the soil won’t become waterlogged and prone to diseases. For potatoes especially, an even soil moisture level is a critical component to the success of the crop.
Potatoes are one of the easiest container veggies to grow, and they need very little attention. Select a container large enough to support a healthy root system. Cover drainage holes by layering newspaper, gravel, or even junk mail in the very bottom of the container, making sure water will drain out but the soil will not. Then, pour in several inches of soil. Potatoes aren’t particular and will grow in just about any medium.
Choose the varieties you prefer of certified organic seed potato from a reputable garden supply vendor. The quality of the starter is what will determine the quality and quantity of the harvest. If certified seed potatoes aren’t available, it’s possible to plant the well-sprouted eyes of store-bought spuds, but the results will be less dependable. Leave a one-inch cube of potato attached to the eye.
After spreading a few inches of soil into the container, place the seed potatoes, with the eyes facing up, on top of the soil. Cover completely with another layer of soil, water, set in full sun, and the plant should sprout through the soil surface relatively quickly.
As your plant continues to grow taller, add soil to the base of the plant to always maintain coverage over the tubers. Potato plants do well with full sun to partial sun, and they like even moisture. In general, potatoes are drought-resistant, so erring on the side of too little, rather than too much water, is preferred. Support the tops of the plants, if necessary, so they don’t break off from their own weight.
A lush green plant will grow tall and full of foliage as the hidden tubers develop. When the plant’s small flowers are in bloom, the new or small potatoes are ready to be carefully dug up out of the soil. Potatoes are full size and ready for final harvest any time after the top of the plant yellows and begins to die off.
Potatoes need to be stored, unwashed, in a cool, dark place for a few days, without any exposure to sunlight. This allows the skins to toughen and mature. Then, they can be moved to a cool cellar as they continue to provide 3 to 6 months of great meals.
This entry was posted
on Wednesday, July 14th, 2010 at 8:08 am and is filed under Growing Tips.
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Begonias are as versatile as they are diverse. The plants maintain a compact, polished and elegant look throughout the entire blooming season, with very little care or maintenance.
There are countless qualities that make begonias popular indoor and outdoor plants. They have a long bloom time. There is a wide range of flower types and colors, as well as leaf shapes, sizes and colors. They come in a variety of growth habits, making them suitable for planting in the ground, patio containers, and hanging planters. And, they grow well in just about any environment.
Begonias are perennials in warm climates, but they can be perennial plants in cold climates if overwintered indoors. They acclimate to fluorescent lighting or low natural indoor sunlight in the fall after a summer season outdoors, and they require no special treatment to provide a long season of profuse flowers when returned to the outdoors after the last frost in late spring. Just be sure to introduce them back outside gradually, so they don’t get shocked by brighter sunlight and harsher temps.
Several varieties of begonias are ideal for hanging planters. Water according to how much direct sunlight (and heat) the pots will be exposed to. Start with a soilless potting mix, as begonias do best in well-draining mediums. They also prefer to have their roots somewhat bound, so don’t use a pot much bigger than the initial root ball. And don’t transplant your mature plants until the roots have truly outgrown their container.
Begonias will thrive with standard houseplant fertilizer. Most begonia aficionados prefer liquid fertilizer, diluted and added with every watering. Dry fertilizers can also be used, mixed into the plant water.
Before choosing varieties of begonias, consider the growth habit, the look of the leaves, and the bloom color, so you have blooming plants that complement your space and will adapt well to your selected site and containers. Even when not in bloom, begonias make a beautiful houseplant, with leaves ranging from velvety to leathery to shiny, and in colors from light green to dark green to purple to variegated patterns.
Keep your begonias on the drier side, rather than evenly moist. Allow your plants to dry out completely, then water thoroughly until the water drains out of the planter and doesn’t saturate the potting mix at the bottom of the pot.
Most varieties of begonias will thrive in conditions of full sun or partial shade. As your patio containers or hanging planters grow, keep pinching off dying leaves and dead flower heads. Begonias are dense plants but they will become leggy if dead parts aren’t removed. Otherwise, they need very little attention to become lush, colorful additions to any environment. And their flowers are bright, cheerful and long-lasting. Best of all, begonias are readily available and very affordable.
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on Thursday, June 17th, 2010 at 8:03 am and is filed under Growing Tips.
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There are many reasons to grow garden vegetables in containers, such as limited space in the yard, too many wild critters roaming unrestricted, and lack of sun where you need it.
Containers allow the gardener to put plants where the light, moisture, and protection from damage are optimum. The question is, how do you begin container gardening?
Tomatoes and peppers are excellent choices for growing on patios and decks and in other unconventional places. For these plants, there are some basic rules of thumb…to show off your greenest thumb.
Vegetable plants are tiny when they’re young, but they’ll grow large as they produce fruit, so the container has to support the weight of the mature plant. If planted directly in the ground, those plants would receive plenty of nutrients from the soil, and the roots would have ample room to spread. So, more soil in the pot means more freedom for the roots to develop into healthy feeding systems for their above-soil plants.
It’s best to plant one plant per pot, for tomatoes and peppers. A 12- to 18-inch pot is optimum for tomatoes, and you can go a little smaller for peppers. If you try to grow multiple plants in one pot, it stresses the roots as they fight for limited moisture and nutrients. Square pots allow you to line several of them in a row, for space efficiency.
In pots, it’s best to feed at the start with a slow-release fertilizer, like Neptune’s Harvest. Young plants require a little more nitrogen to get a healthy start, but then as they set buds, they need a more phosphorous-based food. Those are labeled as “bloom builder” fertilizers, which help those buds become blooms, and then fruit.
During peak blooming periods this might need to be applied once a week, for three or four weeks, depending on the growing period of the plant. Once there are significant blooms, cut back to fertilizing about every other week for a couple of applications, then suspend fertilizing. By this time the plant should be in full production of fruit, and producing more blooms or leaves would be counterproductive. Also, it’s imperative to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for feeding plants, as too much fertilizer can burn up plants, and not enough can cause weak plants and non-yielding harvests.
Last, the most important ingredient of all: water. Young plants in pots require consistent moisture, meaning possibly daily watering. Potted plants can dry up outdoors much faster than those in the ground, so you’ll need to maintain an even moisture level in the soil. Be vigilant in extreme heat conditions, to make sure your plants don’t wilt from being too dry.
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on Monday, April 26th, 2010 at 4:52 pm and is filed under Growing Tips.
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Most growing vegetables need a minimum of 6 hours of sunlight each day. That would be the first advantage of container gardening: you can move your plants to locations where they’ll receive the most sun, if your yard is mostly shady.
Another advantage of container gardening is the ability to control your plants’ moisture. If you’re experiencing a summer that’s particularly rainy, your plants won’t get waterlogged if you just move them under cover. If your summer is unusually dry, you can keep your containers in a location that’s convenient for reaching with a garden hose or pitchers of water.
Many vegetable plants will grow with 3-6 hours of sun per day. If you’re trying to make the most of your space and your light isn’t ideal, try growing salad greens, broccoli, cauliflower, peas, beets, brussels sprouts, radishes, beets, Swiss chard, and leafy greens like collards and spinach. Make sure your container and soil are deep enough to provide the recommended space for the roots to grow.
If you grow plants in containers, like pots, growing bags, windowsill boxes or even decorative pails, make sure you have adequate drainage. The best way to ensure your roots don’t get waterlogged is to drill holes in the bottoms of the containers to allow excess water to drain out. Rocks placed in the bottom, before you fill with soil, will help the water drain without the soil washing out. It’s also important to use a potting mix that drains well.
Plants in pots tend to dry out more quickly than those in the ground, so keep a close watch on the soil’s water content and if the plant starts to wilt, it’s probably time to water. Many edible plants now come in bush varieties, for smaller, more compact plants. These are ideal for porch or patio garden spaces.
Since potted vegetable plants will not have the benefit of all the nutrients in the ground, if their roots were free to grow in a garden plot, you’ll also want to start with rich, composted soil and then regularly feed a high quality vegetable plant food, according to package directions.
A big advantage of container gardens is that pots can be placed where burrowing pests and other wildlife can’t get to them.
Herbs do especially well in containers. In fact, some growers will only grow mint varieties in pots, since they are aggressive spreaders and will take over whatever space they can. Potted herbs can be grown in full sun outdoors, then at the end of the warm weather season can be brought inside and kept in a sunny windowsill to be fresh snipped for meal preparation for months past summer’s end.
If you mix herbs in a container, plant the tallest ones in the back with shorter ones in front, so they’re not hidden from sunlight. Container herb gardens are attractive and easy to grow, and they are a fun way to get children interested in gardening.
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on Tuesday, April 6th, 2010 at 2:03 pm and is filed under Growing Tips.
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Many growers of vegetables are purists and believe that you must have a traditional garden to grow the best tomatoes. We beg to differ!
Container gardening will allow a huge variety of plants to grow where a garden plot isn’t practical or available. For instance, apartment dwellers have only their small patio or balcony, but they shouldn’t be deprived of the pleasures of growing their own produce.
Others grow their produce in containers to be able to conveniently provide the most sun and personal attention to their plants. And some just prefer the portability of containers, making their plants mobile.
The best part about container gardening is the choice of suitable containers. Five- or ten-gallon plastic pails, wood barrels, feed troughs, decorative pots and even black plastic trash bags will hold soil and will provide excellent environments for your tomatoes to thrive. You only need to ensure that your plants are situated where they’ll receive ample sunlight. Then, you’ll have to provide the right moisture to satisfy the watering needs of each plant.
Tomatoes love heat and should be grown where they not only get full sun, but also are protected from strong wind. They also need well-drained soil, meaning your container should have proper drainage holes at the bottom, and the soil should not be allowed to dry out to the point that the plants droop.
There are two types of tomatoes: determinate and indeterminate. The second type will keep growing taller and wider, and will produce fruit continuously throughout the growing season. The first will reach its mature size and then produce its fruit all at once. Both styles of plant will do well in containers.
The determinate varieties are best for people who can or freeze tomatoes and want to prepare them all in one batch. Garden Harvest Supply carries:
If you’re interested in growing tomatoes but don’t want to commit to a full garden, these varieties will thrive with a nutrient-rich soil, consistent moisture and lots of sunlight, even if you’re limited on growing spaces. The other advantages of container gardening are that you can keep your plants in locations that are pest-free, protected from adverse weather conditions, and are close to your water source.
Since the roots are more confined in containers, be sure to start with a good soil mix, and then fertilize your plants regularly as they’re growing to make sure they have healthy roots and stems. Garden Harvest Supply carries everything your soil needs in the way of amendments and food to help you grow a bountiful supply of homegrown tomatoes this summer. Bon Appetit!
This entry was posted
on Wednesday, March 31st, 2010 at 8:57 am and is filed under Growing Tips.
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The Syringa, or Lilac Bush, as it is more commonly known, is widely recognized for its amazingly strong fragrance and its ornamental qualities, with its signature flower panacles one of the first to bloom in spring. The blossoms are normally of a blue or purple hue, but are also available in white, pink and even yellow.
Lilacs prefer full sun, but will also grow in spotty shade, though their blossoms will not be as abundant. Their fragrance also seems to intensify in the sun. Highly adaptable, they can grow in almost any type of soil, though their preference will be soil with a neutral pH (7.0) and one that is rich in organic matter. The roots on lilacs grow horizontally and close to the surface, so they benefit from mulching and from mixing organic materials into the topsoil prior to covering the roots. As plants mature and age, also add manure or compost mixed with the soil if it appears the roots are becoming too shallow due to water drainage or soil erosion. Spent flowers should be removed so as to encourage an increased output for the following year. You may want to cut older plants almost back to the ground once the leaves have fallen. This tends to regenerate them when they’ve gotten a little tired. Also be aware that some cultivars only produce good quality flowers every other year, seeming to rest in the off years.
When cutting lilacs you do not want to sacrifice future blossoms, so use a bypass shear as opposed to an anvil shear, so that the stems are not crushed. Your shears should be sharp and it is also best to cut them early in the morning when they are well hydrated. Flowers dehydrate during the day and the mid-day heat tends to wilt them. Flowers cut at the end of the day may not recuperate well from the cutting and will have a shorter vase life and choosing stems on which the panacles are still at least one-third in the bud stage will also insure a longer vase life. If you prefer to have foliage displayed with your flower stems, then cut leaf-only stems to use for this purpose. Cut stems approximately 1-inch from the bottom of the main stem at a 45-degree angle, providing a larger area for water absorption. You should actually carry a water-filled bucket or container with you, so you can immediately put the stems in water as you cut.
Once you are back inside, strip the leaves that will be below the water line on both flower and foliage stems and cut a 1-inch split in the bottom of the stem with a sharp knife, placing it back in the water. In fact, if you are able to do this while the stems are under water, all the better. Some people will run lukewarm water or fill their sink to bathe the stems, but don’t submerge the whole flower head. Then use fresh lukewarm water with a commercial or homemade floral preservative (see recipe below) to extend their life. As soon as the water starts to get cloudy, change it, including the addition of new preservative, and rinse the stems well, cutting the bottom of the stem off and re-splitting the end so as to provide a new cut for the best water absorption. To further extend their beauty, keep your cut lilacs out of direct sunlight and avoid putting them next to fresh fruit. The same gases that cause fruit to ripen can shorten the life of your lilac blossoms. Lilacs, when cared for properly, can last up to 2 weeks in a vase. Place a vase in every room, inhale deeply and enjoy!
Homemade Flower Preservative
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon household bleach
2 teaspoons lemon or lime juice
1 quart lukewarm water
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