Friday's Fantastic Flower Fiesta #6

August 30th, 2013

Friday's Fantastic Flower Fiesta!

Has been a HUGE hit, so

we are keeping the FUN

and the SAVINGS going!


Every Friday you'll receive

news of the Favorite Fantastic Flowers

being Featured during our







Save 20%

Each Friday through

the following Tuesday


Look at What's on Sale Now!

August 30 through September 3:


Clematis: is a customer favorite! Rich, vibrantly colored, large blossoms amass on vines that can climb as tall as 20 feet and have been known to live as long as 80 years! Fragrant, the butterflies love ‘em while the deer will leave ‘em alone.


Buddleia: is also called the Butterfly Bush or the Summer Lilac and bears wonderfully fragrant sprays of flowers from summer through fall. Stunningly beautiful and remarkably low maintenance, you'll want to keep plenty of vases on hand.


Grasses: a.k.a. Ornamental Grasses, come in a variety of striking and interesting personalities. Architecturally pleasing, theyrequire little maintenance and are not prone to diseases or pests. Grass plants have an appealing look through all four seasons.

Come Browse Awhile

Select the Perennial that Strikes Your Fancy

And Enter Discount Code FF6813

When You Check Out


We Look Forward to Seeing You!



I Love Your Echinacea Plants!

August 29th, 2013

HI! These are some of my Echinaceas that I bought last year. I have had many friends stop by to see how pretty they are and have told them to order from you, for you have always sent nice plants–some blooming at the time I get them in the spring.  I wrote down your name so they would have it.  I have about 50 of the new ones now. Arlene

echinacea plants blooming in the garden

How to Grow Green Giant Arborvitae Plants

August 28th, 2013

Here are some easy tips for how to grow Green Giant Arborvitae plants: Dig a hole 2 times the width of the root ball. Till down to 10 in. deep. Add 1 part peat moss to 4 parts soil. Set the shrub so the root ball sits 1-2 in. above soil level. The planting hole should have slanting sides, so the soil does not collapse on the center. Tamp down the backfill to get rid of air pockets. Water deeply and thoroughly. Mulch to retain moisture.

Pronunciation: are-burr-VEE-tie or are-burr-VIE-tee

Description: These fast-growing (3 ft. a year) evergreen shrubs reach 50-60 ft. tall and 12-20 ft. wide. They have an attractive pyramid shape. The flat sprays of dense green foliage darken to a rich bronze in winter. The cinnamon-red bark makes a nice contrast. Green Giant Arborvitae is a cross between Western Red Cedar and Japanese Arborvitae.

Propagation: Semi-hardwood cuttings or seed

USDA Hardiness Zones: 5-7

Companion Plants: Place Green Giant Arborvitae 5-6 ft. apart for a fast privacy screen; otherwise, set shrubs 10-15 ft. apart.

Fertilizer: At time of planting, use a starter fertilizer such as 20-20-20 to encourage root growth. Check with your nurseryman to find the correct water-soluble feed and follow package directions.

Sun/Light Needs: Full sun to part shade

Maintenance: If foliage color, annual growth, or general condition is poor, consult your nurseryman. Otherwise, low care and little to no pruning is needed.

Display/Uses: Screen, hedge, or windbreak

Wildlife: Deer resistant

Note: In the first year after planting, shrubs need special watering so the root ball does not dry out. Water every 3 days in summer, 1-2 times weekly otherwise. To protect shrubs in winter, wrap with burlap to avoid drying from wind.

Friday’s Fantastic Flower Fiesta #5

August 23rd, 2013

Friday's Fantastic Flower Fiesta!

We are

Forecasting Future Fabulous Fridays


But first

We want to thank you, our





For visiting us on Fridays and helping to make our world, and yours, a greener, prettier place.


This week's

Friday's Fantastic Flower Fiesta! Features

3 Picture-perfect Perennial Categories


Butterfly_On_Geum_FlowerAjuga: is also called Bugleweed, though it doesn't grow like a weed. This slow-growing, creeping, drought-tolerant perennial is an ideal ground cover or border plant. It is deer-resistant, attracting butterflies and hummingbirds with its spikes of late spring blossoms.


Geum: may be known to you as Avens. Its blossoms grow on tall stems atop low-growing foliage with its sunset-colored flowers similar to roses or camellias. Moist soil with good drainage makes them happy, though once established they can withstand some drought-ish conditions.


Veronica: is widely adaptable to different types of soil, is drought-tolerant and deer resistant. Tall flowering columns of blossoms in a variety of colors will call attention to your perennial garden and to your vases. There will be enough blooms to keep the butterflies, hummingbirdsand youvery happy.


Save 20% now through Tuesday (8/27)



Friday's Fantastic Flower Fiesta!


Just Enter Discount Code FF5813


Growing these perennial plants

means you'll experience

perennial savings!



Received the Mums today and they all look very good!

August 20th, 2013

Hello. Just wanted to say, I received the Mums and they all look very good! Genius little containers, too.

Today was planting day for my 120 Mums. As promised, here are pictures of these babies! 

120 garden mums planted in my yard

Drip line is installed and working. I still need to lay down redwood bark or something to cover up the ugly drip line, but these are so cute!

Garden mums after planting

I am glad I acclimated them in the shade for a few days before plantingit’s been really hot out here. As you’ve probably seen, we’ve been having a heck of a heat wave lately. The past few days it was 107, but today it was only around 100, and should be cooling down more. The Mum plants did fine today after being planted.

Chrysanthemum plants growing in the ground

Funny…I came out ONE plant short! There was no mistake on your end; I miscounted the number of holes we dug. So, I will probably be buying another order of a handful more of the Mums in the near future.

Attached are some pictures.

Thank you very much! I am looking forward to watching these babies grow up to be beautiful plants. – Sam

How to Grow Garlic

August 19th, 2013

First Things First:  Shelf Life

In the grocery store, garlic is already at or near the end of its life and is drying out. If it is packaged in plastic, it is suffocating; garlic has to breathe. Cloves of not-so-fresh garlic will be drieror in some cases moldyand will not have the flavor necessary to make your culinary creations shine. At its peak, garlic should be planted in the months of September through December, depending upon where you live, and then not harvested until about July, though young bulbs can be harvested in early spring before the cloves have developed (these are called rounds) and sautéed or otherwise used as you would green onions.

Top-Setting vs. Underground Garlic

No, we're not talking about black market garlic here. We are talking about growing flowering garlic as opposed to growing garlic plants that don't flower. Most of the garlic you find in the plastic packages in your grocery store is underground garlic, largely because it is easier to cultivate and harvest. Simply put, underground garlic does not flower and does not yield a tall stalk that gets in the way of harvesting. It also has a thicker, more protective papery covering that withstands the rigors of shipping and storage in full light in the produce aisle.


Top-setting garlic is also called hardneck. It produces a stalk with tiny bulb-lets, called bulbils, that will drop off and scatter if not harvested, some of which will grow again. Harvest the bulbils when you see them start to drop in order to control crowding; overcrowding will result in smaller bulbs. You can keep them to plant for next season's crop or give them away to your friends and family.

Top-setting varieties, such as our Music garlic, are said to have a richer and more pungent flavor with easier-to-peel cloves, although the individual cloves may not be quite as large. The cloves will also have a decidedly purplish cast to them, while the entire bulb may still have a white, papery wrapping. The top-setting garlic plants will produce the useable garlic underground, just as underground plants do. Some home gardeners prefer to have a visible signal as to the progress of their plants, which is why top-setting varieties are more popular with grow-it-youselfers and, as stated above, the flavor is said to be superior.

Underground garlic, like our Common Garlic, is called softneck and rarely produces a tall flowering stalk; however, a shorter stalk with leaves will be present. Producing large bulbs, usually with larger cloves than top-setting garlic, and wrapped in light-reflecting, protective white papery skins, these are the cloves normally mass-produced for the grocery store, the spice manufacturers, and the pickle-producers. Due to the thick, dry, papery wrapping, these cloves are also more difficult to peel and may require more per recipe than top-setting garlic.

If you are unsure of which garlic to plant, plant both. You can then determine which grows best in your climate, and you will be able to do your own taste-tests. Gourmet chefs will use both kinds in their kitchens and will grow both in their gardens.

A quick note: Top-setting garlic is also known as bolting garlic, while underground garlic is considered non-bolting.

When and Where to Plant Garlic

Harvesting_Garlic_PlantsGarlic can be planted in the spring, but the best results happen when it is planted in the fall and then harvested in late June through August, depending on where you live. For example, in far northern climates you will most likely be planting in late September or early October to beat the heavy frost, and then harvesting in July or August once the summer heat has matured your garlic crop.

Garlic's natural habitat is in cool, moist soil and the longer it is there, the better it will be.

Garlic, according to the experts, needs the wintertime cold and moisture to produce the best-tasting, most filled-out bulbs. Too little moisture and too little time in the ground will result in smaller, less plump-looking, dry bulbs, which also greatly affects the flavor and the shelf life.

Your soil should be deeply tilled to provide the best growing environment. Garlic prefers sandy, silty loam with exceptional drainage. If you live in an area with heavy clay content, you will either want to amend your soil or plant in a raised bed with amended soil at least 12 inches deep. Under ideal soil conditions, garlic roots can grow up to 3 feet deep. You will want to plant your garlic where it will receive at least 8 hours of full sunlight daily.

Which End Is Up?

Just about everything you read will tell you to plant the rounded (root end) down and the pointed (sprout end) up. Regardless of how the cloves are placed in the ground, the roots will grow from the root end and the sprouts will grow upward, toward the sun. What we can't see under the ground is that through the natural process of the soil's expansion, contraction, settling, etc., the clove will eventually right itself to the proper growing position. If you are planting a large crop, plant your garlic sets in the way that is easiest for you to do it.

Rows & Spacing

Garlic should be planted between 2 and 5 inches deep. Rows should be about a foot apart, allowing you the space to walk between them for weeding. The space between the individual plants only needs to be about 6 inches and since you are planting large-sized cloves and not seeds, you will not have to go back and thin them afterwards. About the weeds: cultivate the garlic until the snow starts falling or until winter sets in. This is when the roots are first becoming established and it is most important to reduce the competition for nutrients. Mow the weeds down as short as possible before the first shoots start to appear above the ground in early spring. Weeds should always be kept under the best control you can manage.


Garlic is a relatively heavy feeder; it will do best if the furrows are prepared with a high phosphorous fertilizer like Triple Superphosphate prior to planting. Growers have also reported exceptional results with all-natural fish emulsion plant foods, like Neptune's Harvest.  Bone Meal, which provides phosphorous and nitrogen, is then side-dressed in early and late spring, with fertilization being suspended in early June when the heat and moisture have signaled the cloves to start swelling.


Garlic needs a fair amount of water, as well. It's best to water very deeply and slowly every 10 days to 2 weeks, allowing the water to soak down at least a foot. If your area has particularly hot summers or has been experiencing severe drought, you may have to water once a week. Proper irrigation is most critical in early June as the cloves are swelling, helping them to maintain their high moisture content for better size and flavor.


Hanging_Garlic_To_DryThere is no above-ground indication that your bulbs are ready to harvest. You will have to dig down to take a look at the bulbs to see if they are ready. Getting them out of the ground takes a little practice, but it's fairly easy. Remember that the roots go deep, so you'll be cutting the roots off below the bulb. A sharp, hoe-type implement will work best. You can work each row by hoeing and cutting below the bulbs and then going back and pulling them from the ground, laying them all facing the same direction so the stalks don't become tangledparticularly important if you will be braiding and/or hanging your garlic plants to dry before storing. Harvesting when the ground is a bit dry is also easier and will result in less drying time. Drying should take place in a well-ventilated, shady, warm and dry area and it usually takes two to three weeks; this process further matures the bulbs, as well, and will greatly increase their shelf life. Some people set up drying racks or screens, while some braid the stalks and let them hang. Try to avoid bruising the bulbs in any way; this shortens the shelf life dramatically.


Fresh garlic should be stored in a dark, dry and well-ventilated space, protected from high humidity and freezing. Cooler temperatures combined with humidity will result in sprouting. Remember: garlic needs to breathe. Do not store in plastic. Garlic stored properly should last on the shelf until your next harvest, though this is not true of grocery store garlic, as the storage and distribution system will not accommodate garlic's ideal needs for long-term storage. It is also true that after 6 months the flavor may not be as pungent. Garlic can be dried and crushed into garlic powder. It can be stored in oil in the refrigerator for a few months, but it should be discarded if any sign of mold or yeast is seen on the container or on top of the oil. It can be pureed and then frozen by mixing one part garlic to two parts oil; it can be chopped and wrapped tightly in a freezer bag or plastic wrap and then frozenor you can freeze unpeeled garlic and remove the cloves as needed. Canning is not recommended due to the high temperatures required to kill botulism, while the airless environment created in oil is also ideal for growing this bacteria, which is why it should never be stored in oil at room temperature.

This may all sound really complicated, but the truth is that garlic is fairly easy to grow. We just wanted to give you as much information as possible. There is no comparison when it comes to homegrown fresh vs. grocery-store aged. None!

As always, we will appreciate any contributions of garlic-related stories, anecdotes or advice you may have. Follow us on Facebook and Twitter for all the latest news and discounts or to share your own gardening experiences.

Happy Gardening! From All of Us at Garden Harvest Supply

Friday's Fantastic Flower Fiesta! #4

August 16th, 2013

Friday's Fantastic Flower Fiesta!


Is it Friday Yet?

Yes, It Is!

Get Ready for the Weekend


And while you're daydreaming,

take a mental stroll around your yard.

Can it use some perennial color?

Is there a corner just calling out for a shrub?


There is
always room for improvement, and

now is the ideal time to add that spot of color or that attention-grabbing focal point!





Friday's Fantastic Flower Fiesta!

You will save 20% on

4count them4

    different types of flowers or shrubs, and every      

flower or shrub we have in stock in all 4 departments!


True Geranium: Also called Hardy Geranium or Cranesbill, this perennial actually looks nothing like a geranium. Single frilly blooms atop spreading, foliage make the highly aromatic True Geranium ideal for spilling over rocks or driftwood.


Heuchera: Coral Bells is grown mostly for its colorful foliage, but

it gets its name from the tiny, bell-shaped blossoms rising on

graceful stems above highly decorative and interesting leaves.


Sedum: Showy and drought-tolerant, its succulent leaves support loads of bushy flower heads that will cover the upper two thirds of this Stonecrop, a remarkably fragrant butterfly magnet.


Syringa: Lilacs are one of the most sweet-smelling blossoms you'll ever grow. Blooming early in the spring, these fantastic flowers can be cut to fill your vases to bring that amazing perfume indoors.


So, browse our sale to your heart's content –

Picture these gorgeous and colorful blossoms growing in your own yard.

Add a bunch to your cart

and enter discount code FF4813

to save 20%

and enjoy those savings for

years to come!

Coupon Expires 8/20/13



How to Grow Barberry Plants

August 14th, 2013

Here are some easy tips on how to grow Barberry plants: These colorful, easy to care for shrubs do well in average, well-draining soil. They have normal water needs, and do best in a sunny spot. These shrubs offer a long-lasting, three-season display of eye-catching color.

Description: This yard and garden standout is easy to grow and easy to care for. The Barberry plant is a deciduous shrub with half-inch flowers that bloom in April and May. The attractive foliage grows on compact, thorny branches.

Origin: Native of Japan

Propagation: Semi-hardwood stem cuttings cut in mid-July or mid-September.

USDA Hardiness Zones: 4-8

Companion Plants: Place Barberry shrubs 4-6 ft. apart to make a natural privacy hedge.

Fertilizer: Generally, none needed. For new plantings, use a slow release liquid feed and follow package directions. Consult your nurseryman with any questions.

Sun/Light Needs: Full sun is best

Maintenance: Low.

Display/Uses: Hedges; foundation planting

Wildlife Value: Deer resistant; attractive to birds

Diseases/Pests: Root rot, if soil does not drain well; rust and wilt


Getting the Most from Your Garden Seeder

August 12th, 2013


In this newsletter we'll go into depth about the Earthway Precision Garden Seeder.

If you own one, you'll appreciate the valuable and extensive information contained in the Tips and Suggestions section below, which gives you the rundown on this machine that you won't find in the instructions or in any promotional materials.

If you don't own a Precision Garden Seeder, read on to learn how it can save you a great deal of time and effort in your garden, and really put the fun back into planting time.

Earthway Precision Garden Seeder

This highly popular seeder has been around for decades, but this latest model 1001B is the best yet. It allows you to plant your row crops infinitely faster than by hand, and with no bending or stooping. It also allows you to adjust the planting depth, the density of coverage, and the width of the rows. It comes with six interchangeable plates that can handle most seeds. A set of five additional plates can be bought separately that will take care of the rest.

To watch the Precision Seeder in action, check out this video review from Alderman Farms. As you can see, what's so timesaving about this machine is that it digs the trench, plants the seeds, and covers them up, all in one pass. Customers rave about how they were able to sow large swaths of their garden in a fraction of the time it would have normally taken them. Weighing just 10 pounds, it's easy to push and, by the way, easy to assemble. But the heavy-gauge aluminum frame, nylon fittings, steel bushing shafts, and cleated drive wheel are built to last.

Tips and Suggestions

  • Earthway_Garden_Seed_PlatesYou won't want to use the Precision Seeder with hard clay soil or soil that is lumpy, clumpy, or full of clods, rocks, weeds, or debris. The finer the soil, the better it works, so if you have sandy soil or any smooth, level soil that has been freshly tilled, you will get excellent results.
  • It's best to first do a dry run in the place you are planning to sow, but without putting seed in your seeder. Your aim will be to make sure the planting depth is what you want it to be and to confirm that the seeder is able to furrow and then cover the soil effectively.
  • The Precision Seeder works best when it is well stocked with seeds, so don't let the hopper get low. It's best to put in more seeds than you need and then remove what's left after you finish.
  • To determine which plate is best for the seeds you're planning to sow, don't take Earthway's word for it but find out for yourself through some quick experimentation.  Keep the unit stationary, stock it with seed, put a basin beside it to catch the seed when it drops, and then slowly turn the front wheel by hand. You can then observe whether the seeds drop through one at a time at the rate they're supposed to.

Garden_Seeder_In_GardenThe Bayou Gardener has put together a very helpful six-minute video demonstrating this, as well as how to manually adjust seed spacing. As he explains, the circumference of the front wheel is 36 inches and the seed plate makes one revolution for each turn of the wheel. Therefore the number of pockets on each seed plate represents the number of seeds dropped in every 36 inches of travel. If you divide 36 by the number of pockets, you’ll arrive at the seed spacing in inches. To increase the spacing, you just cover some of the pockets with electrical tape. Thus if you cover every other one, you will double the spacing.

  • Be sure you have the plate on correctly, or else some seeds will end up behind it. Even if it is on correctly, some seeds or debris will collect behind it, so use a rag to periodically clean the space between the seed plate and the container to prevent the plate from binding up.
  • Once you begin to sow your seeds, it's a good idea to keep your eye on them to make sure they are coming out one by one at the rate you want them to. If they are not, try tilting the machine slightly in the direction of the plate and see if that helps. Another idea is to mix a little talcum powder in with your seeds. If you still are not getting the results you want, manually adjust the plate by covering some of the holes with electrical tape as discussed earlier. Note that even seed distribution depends on the front wheel being in contact with the ground.
  • To remove seeds from the hopper, you can tip the entire unit or turn it upside down. However, if you simply remove two bolts, the hopper itself can easily be removed as demonstrated in this one-minute video.

Garden_Seeder_SowingWe hope this newsletter has been helpful to you. Leave us a comment to let us know. And if you have any questions, write to Karen, our master gardener, or call us at 1-888-907-4769.

Until next time, enjoy your Precision Garden Seeder, and Happy Gardening from all of us at Garden Harvest Supply!


Friday's Fantastic Flower Fiesta #3

August 9th, 2013

Friday's Fantastic Flower Fiesta!


Are you loving Fridays as much as we are?


This is the ideal time to plant

perennials and shrubs.


The kids are going back to school. The weather is cooling down and you'll be settling in soon for the fall.


But, before you do

Save some green while planting some!


Your new plants will have plenty of time to become acclimated to their new home and will look so much more mature and beautiful next year with the lion's share of the work already done.


Celebrate Fridays and

Blossom-Love with us

during our

Fantastic Flower Fiesta!

Save 20% on Friday

(through Tuesday, August 13)

on every flower in stock in these

3 departments:

Gaillardia:  The Blanket Flower thrives in poor soils and is tolerant of drought, salt and humidity. This is one of the easiest perennials to grow, with simply brilliant colors!


Dianthus:  This prolific bloomer is also called Sweet William and is the versatile sweetheart of many gardens. Low maintenance and widely adaptable, you don't even have to deadhead or prune them!


Rose Plants:  This is where those prized rose hips come from. Letting the blossoms fall off naturally will allow you to harvest them for medicinal uses, or they can provide nutrients for resident or migrating winter birds.  



Just add your selections to your cart.

Enter Discount Code FF3813 when prompted

and wait for your Fantastic Flowers

to arrive on your doorstep!