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Keeping Hardy Hibiscus Over the Winter

hardy hibiscusWe just planted three Hardy Hibiscus that we purchaed from Garden Harvest Supply. The plants are thriving! We need a little help to know your recommendation for winterizing. Mulch…Burlap…Fertilizing? Thanks for helping with this.  Mark and Jacquie S.

Answer: Thank you for purchasing some of our wonderful Hardy Hibiscus plants. They are such a great way to create that tropical feel in our yards for those of us in the northern areas. Hibiscus need a dormancy period during the winter. As a broad category, these plants are hardy from Zones 4-9, but some varieties have lower tolerance for cold. Check the information for your specific variety and check your Zone.

For winter care, wait until there has been a killing frost, one that turns the leaves brown, and then trim the stems back. Hardy hibiscus are considered a perennial plant, not a shrub, so they will die down to the ground each winter. To help them survive the cold, cover the plants with a thick, 8- to 12-inch layer of mulch, chopped leaves or pine needles. This will help protect the root ball. 

Mark the placement of the plants since these are slow starters in the spring. It’s very easy to think you have lost them, so have patience. The soil temperatures need to reach the 70-degree range to bring them out of their winter sleep. Once you see their new sprouts emerge, give them a dose of a slow-release fertilizer, such as Neptune’s Harvest. Also watch, as some varieties like to self-sow, and you may have some new plants to share with your friends.

Happy Gardening,

Karen

5 Responses to “Keeping Hardy Hibiscus Over the Winter”

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  2. Mary says:

    I have a beautiful red hardy hibiscus and a white rose of sharon. They are potted in large pots and I can not bring them inside. I do not have a place to plant them in the ground. How do I protect them on porch or deck during the winter? Should I wrap them in burlap or bubble wrap, do they need to be watered in the winter, etc`? Any help you can give me would be appreciated. I do not want to lose them.

  3. Mary says:

    Can caladiums be brought inside in the winter and continue to grow or should I take the kernels out of the soil? If I have to take them out how do I keep them from rotting? Thanks

  4. jstutzman says:

    Mary: Caladiums are a tropical plant grown from tubers, and if you have them planted in a pot you can bring them inside when the nights start to drop into the upper 40s. Keep them in a sunny window until the leaves begin to die back. They need a dormancy period, so you can move the pot to a cooler, non-sunny area. Do not water them. You can also take them out of the pot and clean all the dirt and dead leaves off and store the tubers in a mesh bag. They need to stay in temps that are in the mid 50s and can survive this way for up to five months. At this point you can pot them up again and put them in a sunny location to get them ready to return to the outside after all signs of frost have passed. When you take the tubers out of storage they should be firm and fleshy and not shriveled or mushy.

    Happy Gardening, Karen

  5. Karen says:

    Mary: Protecting potted plants can be tricky, depending on your location. You want to attempt to simulate the natural situation they would have in their zone-specific winter. They would need to be cool but not allow the root ball to freeze and would need some occasional water; while the top of the plant is dormant, the roots are still busy taking in nutrients and water at a reduced rate. If you have a cool garage or basement you could store them there but they would need some light. A barn could work but you would still need to protect the root ball by setting the pot into a larger pot and adding more soil or sand to give another layer of insulation. In Zone 5 or 6 you can store them outside on the north side of the house if possible and pile leaves, or bags of leaves, around the pots. It’s best if they are outside to put the pot at an angle so that snow or ice does not remain on the top of the roots and freeze them. Burlap or bubble wrap would not be enough insulation for a cold winter. If you don’t have bags of leaves, check with a neighbor or put out a call for some. Don’t add the protection until mid- to late December, for Zone 6 and below; otherwise the plant might attempt to grow again and then be killed with a freeze.

    Good luck, and I hope they make it thru the winter.

    Karen

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